Big Five – FeedOne of the reasons Big Five is ahead of the product curve, is our constant exploration. So far in 2026, team members have been in Zimbabwe, South Africa, Egypt, Japan, Kenya (twice), Uganda, India, and even Panama. Coming up, we have team members going to Colombia, Egypt again, Ecuador, and Peru. Speaking of Peru, which is Big Five’s top destination globally, we have 3 visits this year, by three separate team members.
Guess what? None of us are going to Machu Picchu.
At all.
Not even heading to Cusco!
We have a three part dispatch planned for Peru, from three separate perspectives. Below is part I, written by my colleague Susie, who found herself glamping in the Nor Yauyos Conchas Reserve. If you never heard of that part of Peru… we know. That’s why Susie was there.
Enjoy her dispatch and video.
“This was a much-anticipated trip, years in the making. Having traveled to Peru several times, I wanted this journey to be different – to go beyond “Peru 101” – the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Cusco. I wanted to experience a side of the country where I wasn’t rubbing shoulders with other travelers. I was looking for something deeper and more personal, where the pace was slower, the landscapes more expansive, and there was time to pause and truly take them in without crowds competing for the same view. I wanted to engage with local communities rather than follow a line of visitors, and experience Peru in a way that felt less like checking off the highlights and more like uncovering something for myself. That desire took me well beyond the familiar tourist route, from Lima’s Barranco neighborhood to the remote cloud forests of Chachapoyas and, ultimately, the dramatic landscapes and welcoming communities of the Nor Yauyos Conchas Reserve. Along the way, I discovered that some of Peru’s most rewarding experiences are found far from its most famous sites. Void of tourists, there was time to slow down, notice the small details, connect with people, and appreciate the remarkable sense of place. And perhaps most surprisingly, traveling beyond Peru’s most iconic sites made a country I thought I knew feel entirely new.
I began my journey in Barranco, Lima’s bohemian neighborhood and one of the city’s most characterful areas. Colorful, creative, and full of personality, Barranco blends colonial architecture with contemporary art, independent boutiques, cafés, and restaurants. There is a wonderfully relaxed rhythm to the neighborhood, with locals lingering over coffee, artists and designers showcasing their work, and beautifully weathered buildings adding to its unmistakable sense of place. Hotel B, a restored Belle Époque mansion, captures the essence of Barranco. Artistic, relaxed, historic and just a little unconventional, it is much more connected to the personality of Lima than a classic luxury hotel.
And then there’s the food – which is, of course, a WOW! Peru has earned its reputation as the culinary capital of South America, and Lima is at the heart of it all. While the city is home to celebrated restaurants such as Maido, named the World’s Best Restaurant in 2025 and notoriously difficult to book, I found myself drawn to the smaller, more personal places that offer a different perspective on Lima’s food scene. Fernandini, also in Barranco, is one of those gems. Chef Rodrigo Fernandini draws on Peru’s rich culinary heritage while giving traditional flavors a contemporary interpretation, with ingredients representing the country’s coast, Andes, and Amazon. It is a wonderful example of how Lima’s culinary scene continues to evolve while remaining deeply rooted in Peru.
Another highlight was Horneando Ando, an intimate, closed-door restaurant that serves flavorful Peruvian cuisine in a warm, home-like setting. There’s nothing pretentious about it – the food is comforting, the hospitality is personal, and owners Kleiber and Mannie are right there in the kitchen. The experience feels genuine and unhurried, offering a wonderful taste of local Lima that you simply don’t get at the city’s more high-profile gastronomic destinations.
It was then off to Amazonas to explore Chachapoyas, one of Peru’s most intriguing and lesser-visited destinations, tucked away in the cloud forests of the Andes. Known as the gateway to the ancient Chachapoya civilization, which flourished centuries before the Inca, the region is a fascinating combination of dramatic mountain scenery, mist-shrouded cloud forests, archaeological treasures, and spectacular waterfalls. My deep dive into the Chachapoya began at the Leymebamba museum showcasing the archaeological treasures discovered in the surrounding cloud forests. The museum is particularly known for its collection of mummies and funerary objects, including more than 200 mummified individuals recovered from the nearby Laguna de los Cóndores. I explored Kuelap, an extraordinary pre-Inca fortress perched high above the Utcubamba Valley as well as hiked to the nearby Gocta Waterfall that plunges through lush Andean forest. The region is also home to the mysterious Karajía sarcophagi, impressive funerary figures carved high into the cliffs.
Another part of the appeal is the opportunity to stay in places that are as connected to the destination as the experiences themselves.
During my time in the region, I spent two nights at Rangra Wasi, a beautiful eco-lodge just outside Leymebamba. A true labor of love for owners Alvaro and Patricia, they transformed a once-overgrown slope of land into a thriving ecosystem of gardens and native plants. Birding is a real highlight here, with the surrounding habitat attracting a wonderful variety of species. What makes Rangra Wasi so special is the personal touch – it feels more like staying in someone’s home rather than a hotel. It’s peaceful, wonderfully remote, and exactly the place to linger a little longer.
Gocta Natura offered a different setting but created much the same sense of connection. Located in the countryside near Gocta Waterfall, the lodge is surrounded by mountains and open landscapes, making it an ideal place to appreciate the natural beauty of the region. The real heart of Gocta Natura, however, is its owner, Rocío. Her connection to the land, support of the local communities, and pride in what she has created are evident throughout the property, and her warm hospitality makes a stay here feel especially genuine. This is not about luxury in the traditional sense. It is about simplicity, comfort, beautiful surroundings, and complete immersion in the landscape.
And just when I thought the journey couldn’t take me somewhere any more unexpected, I flew back to Lima and took to the roads on a six-hour 4WD drive to the Nor Yauyos Conchas Reserve. The drive was not for the faint of heart. Much of the route is unpaved, with narrow, one-lane roads winding along steep mountainsides and around sharp bends. At times, it feels as though there is barely enough room for two vehicles to pass, adding a little excitement to the journey. Very few travelers make their way to the Nor Yauyos Conchas Reserve. In fact, according to official 2025 figures, only about 1,200 international visitors visited the reserve that year. To put that into perspective, Machu Picchu receives roughly the same number of visitors in just three hours!
Tucked into the highlands south of Lima, the reserve was the perfect way to end my Peruvian adventure and another reminder of just how much there is to discover beyond the country’s most well-known destinations. After the archaeological wonders and cloud forests of Chachapoyas, the reserve offered something completely different – dramatic mountain landscapes, deep valleys, turquoise rivers, cascading waterfalls, and small villages seemingly tucked into the mountainsides. But what stayed with me most was the strong sense of community. Communities such as Laraos come together to build houses, till the land, share their bounties, and break bread at the end of the day. This sense of community is also part of what makes traveling through Nor Yauyos Conchas so rewarding. Rather than just passing through a beautiful landscape, you have opportunities to meet the people who live here, learn about their traditions, and see how closely their lives remain tied to the mountains, rivers, and agricultural lands around them.
My base was Huaycana Glamping, which was an experience in itself. Set in the spectacular landscape of the reserve, the property offers a wonderfully different way to experience this remote corner of Peru. While Huancaya is a popular escape for travelers from Lima and other parts of Peru, drawn by its impressive waterfalls and striking turquoise lagoons, it remains relatively unknown to international travelers. The accommodations at Huaycana Glamping are simple but comfortable, allowing the surrounding landscape to take center stage. Waking up to sweeping mountain views and open skies, with the sounds of nature replacing the noise of everyday life, was a pretty wonderful way to start each day. A visit to the nearby community of Huancaya added another dimension to the experience, connecting the destination and its people.
The communities of Laraos and Huancaya are both small, with approximately 100–200 residents in each, and roughly 30% are involved in tourism. This makes the impact of each visit especially meaningful. Tourism allows residents to share their traditions and keep them alive – from agricultural activities and traditional pachamancas to music and other community experiences. Rather than simply observing, travelers have the opportunity to experience these traditions firsthand and gain a genuine glimpse into everyday life.
That was one of the most rewarding aspects of my journey through Peru. From the creative energy of Barranco and the ancient history of Chachapoyas to the remote landscapes of Nor Yauyos Conchas, each destination revealed a different side of a country I thought I knew.
After several trips to Peru, I came home with a renewed appreciation for how much there is still to explore and a reminder that the places farthest from the traditional tourist trail can often leave the deepest impression.
