For Part III of our Japan dispatch, Tatiana went even further off the beaten path. You can read her notes form her time on the Kumano Kodo Here.
However for this portion, she went south, to the Japan she once knew, as Tatiana put it. This is Unzen and Aso, the Japan nobody ever sees. This is #bigfivin.
“Japan remains one of the most visited places in the world, and for good reason. It offers an extraordinary blend of food, culture, history, nature, temples, and safety. Yet all of this beauty comes with a price: the most iconic destinations like Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Hakone are now overwhelmingly crowded. Rivers of people flow through every site, every train, every street, not only locals, but Western travelers and visitors from all across Asia. At times, it feels as if the magic is being swallowed by the sheer volume of tourism.
Last month, during yet another visit to Japan, I found myself longing for the Japan I once knew, the quiet moments, the gentle encounters, the feeling of being a foreigner in a place where everything felt new and special. And then, unexpectedly, I discovered that Japan again.
I traveled to Unzen, in Nagasaki Prefecture, and Aso, in Kumamoto, both in the Kyushu region. Nagasaki often carries a heavy place in the world’s memory, but few people know the hidden gem that lies beyond that history: a land of hot springs, active volcanoes, and a deep, unpolished authenticity. You know you have stepped off the beaten path when you realize you are the only Western-looking person on the plane.
In Unzen, the volcano has long been revered as a protective deity, a source of healing hot springs, fertile soil, and rich tradition. It was Japan’s first designated national park, and its lush nature still draws those seeking peace. Here, I met a group of young entrepreneurs and professionals who had left their high-powered lives in Tokyo in search of something quieter. They now live from the land, cultivating strawberries, plums, pears, and grapes. They traded the skyline of concrete towers for the ocean, the forest, and the tranquility of a life in the country.
What touched me most were the countless conversations I shared with locals, despite the fact that I don’t speak Japanese and they didn’t speak English. They were humble, regal in their simplicity, balanced, respectful. We spoke with our hands, our eyes, our gestures, and our smiles. Because they are not overwhelmed by foreign visitors, they were genuinely curious about me. They wanted to connect. They even wanted to take photos together.
I remember walking toward the Temple of Eyesight, where locals come to pray for better vision. At the top, I met Morah, a local farmer who volunteers to keep the temple clean. He offered me oranges and potatoes for our dinner, a gesture so pure and generous it stayed with me. That evening, we used his potatoes at a small traditional eatery beside the Unzen Jigoku steaming vents. The restaurant cooks everything using the natural geothermal steam rising from the volcanic ground, a method that has shaped Unzen’s culinary culture for generations. Food is steamed at around 100°C, preserving moisture and enhancing natural sweetness. No oil, no heavy seasoning, just clean, honest flavors from a region rich in organic farms.
Here, you can kayak at sunset on calm waters, then end your day lying on a tatami mat, watching the starry sky while wrapped in the warm embrace of the volcano.
After a short local ferry ride, I arrived in Aso, home to one of the world’s largest volcanic calderas. You can stand at the edge of the Nakadake crater, visit rural villages like Teno nestled inside an ancient caldera, and wander through wide-open landscapes shaped by fire and time. This is a place made for cycling, hiking, and breathing deeply.
Agriculture is the heartbeat of Aso. Each year, farmers burn the fields to restore minerals to the soil, allowing new grasses to grow and feed the cattle, a continuous cycle of destruction and renewal, where nature is reborn again and again.
You can enjoy a private tasting of organic tea with a woman who harvests every leaf herself, creating delicate blends that reflect the land. And you can visit Aso-jinja, one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrines, with nearly 2,000 years of history. It is dedicated to the Aso deity lineage, believed to protect and shape this volcanic world.
In these places, Unzen and Aso, I found the Japan I had been missing. A Japan of quiet beauty, genuine encounters, and landscapes that breathe with ancient life. Here, far from the crowds, Japan feels intimate again. Here is where the land, the people, and the traveler meet with open hearts.”
The Kumano Kodo is one of the most sacred walks in Japan, one that Big Five had to pause when Japan reopened after the borders post pandemic. We did so because there are only a few guides that are truly knowledgeable about the importance of this trail. My colleague Tatiana wrote what I think to be her best dispatch ever in this section. She had just lost her mom right before departing for this trip, and it was here that the true power of the Kumano Kodo was unveiled.
Enjoy.
“I embarked on this adventure to hike the Kumano Kodo with mixed feelings. Part of me was driven by my exploring spirit, always eager to see the world, while another part carried the weight of my mother’s recent passing. She was the one who taught me about the world and encouraged me to discover it. I grew up listening to her countless stories of traveling through Europe with her sister and aunt in the 1950’s, a time when going abroad was rare in Chile, where she was born. She remembered every detail, and her stories were so vivid that I never tired of hearing them or reliving them in my imagination. They sparked in me a desire to see those places with my own eyes. She opened a door to travel that I never want to close.
I can still hear my mother’s words: “Always take advantage of any opportunity to travel,” and “Let the money suffer,” she used to say, “because seeing the world will enrich you in so many ways. Every time you travel, you will change, your mind will expand, your acceptance and understanding of others will grow, and so will you.” She was absolutely right. Her advice is what led me to pursue a career in the travel industry, beginning with my first job as a guide in Ecuador. And last month, when I found myself doubting whether I should go to Japan, I could hear her voice encouraging me to go, reminding me that she would be with me.
The Kumano Kodo, together with the Camino de Santiago, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I walked the Camino eight years ago, so when the chance arose to experience the Kumano Kodo this year, I didn’t hesitate. At first, our planning was purely exploratory, as we wanted to re-introduce the hike into our programs since we stopped offering it after Covid. I had no idea that the purpose of this hike would shift so profoundly, drawing me into something far more personal.
For over 1,000 years, pilgrims have walked these mountains. The region’s sacred peaks were once seen as otherworldly, places connected to death, the afterlife, and spiritual renewal. People come here for many reasons: to seek rebirth, to deepen their awareness, to transform, or simply to be close to nature.
Every evening, we stayed in small onsens, sleeping on tatami mats on the floor. I was convinced my back wouldn’t survive several nights like that, but to my surprise, I didn’t have a single ache. I’m starting to think the Japanese are onto something with these tatami mats. One night, we stayed in an old temple where monks still practice and train. At dawn, we witnessed a fire ceremony led by the monks, burning small pieces of wood while praying for the well‑being of loved ones, their chanting echoing through the hall. I learned about the Shinto practice of worshipping mountains (as it is the home of the divine), the arrival of Buddhism in Japan from China and the fusion of both faiths.
Every day, I felt as if I were dining in a Michelin‑star restaurant, each meal somehow better than the last. The sashimi melted in my mouth, and the combinations of flavors and ingredients were constant, joyful surprises. I tried everything, sometimes with reluctancy, and now I find myself longing for it all. Meals arrived on multiple tiny plates, offering a different texture and taste: lightly seasoned vegetables, fish, sweet fish, cucumbers, pickles, rice, seaweed, tofu, miso soup, all perfectly balanced and proportioned. Nothing was heavy, everything felt just right. We even visited a fish market in Ise, where people from across Japan come in the morning for fresh sashimi, and much of the tuna sold in Tokyo’s famous fish market comes from there.
Along the way, we visited many shrines and temples, but three sacred sites left the deepest impression:
This seven‑day, forty‑mile hike took us through cedar and cypress forests. Some days were easier, with flat stretches, others required tough ascents and careful descents. Most days we enjoyed beautiful sunlight, but we also proved our endurance through rain, and at times heavy rain. Along the trail, we found many Jizō statues, placed to guide and safeguard hikers. They remind you that you are not walking alone, and I definitely wasn’t. The moment I needed a push, there was a Jizō blessing my journey.
One day, we passed an area with fourteen stone poem monuments erected about thirty years ago by the Kumanogawa villagers. The poems are a mixture of old and new, multilayered in meaning, and difficult to translate because of their nuances. Our guide chose one poem to translate. No one knew about my recent loss, yet when I heard it, it felt like a vivid message from my mother. It read: “My deceased mother reminds me: every step on Kumotori is a walk for the repose of the dead.”
It means that your walk on Kumano is not just a hike, it is a sacred act, a way of honoring the dead, especially your mother. I knew in that moment that these words were meant for me, and that taking this hike was no coincidence. I needed it, and it arrived in my life with a kind of quiet precision, at exactly the right time. Every step became a personal prayer for me, and every breath helped me cherish many memories of my mother and me. The trail ended, but the conversation with my mother continues in every step I take from here.”
In my last letter, we showcased part one of my colleague Tatiana’s dispatch from Jordan, where she started her adventure with her son, a recent graduate. Part two of Tatiana’s dispatch finds her and Carstenz in Egypt. Follow her journey as she ventures from a private tomb in Saqqara to hiking with the Bedouins. Our dispatch series offers a front-row seat into the narrative that makes up a Big Five journey.
Egypt is a destination that offers all the ingredients for a wonderful experience: great hotels, knowledgeable guides, and awe-inspiring sites.
My son recently graduated from high school, and visiting Egypt was one of his dreams. We meticulously prepared for this trip a year in advance, even encouraging him to learn Arabic through Duolingo. Our research included reading about Egypt, such as Agatha Christie’s book “Murder on the Nile,” and watching several documentaries related to the country, including “The Secret of Saqqara.” I aimed to build excitement for our journey.
Beyond the iconic pyramids and the temples of Luxor, Karnak Abu Simbel, etc, we had two extraordinary experiences that went beyond the usual tourist visits. Let me share them with you. Saqqara is an incredibly rich archaeological site, and it continually reveals new discoveries each year. One such discovery is the Whatye Tomb, prominently featured in a Netflix documentary (mentioned above). I recommend watching it, as it beautifully explains the story of Isis, Osiris, Hathor, and Horus—a foundational understanding when exploring Luxor.
To my son’s surprise, we visited the Whatye Tomb. He had no idea we were going there, but his enthusiasm from the documentary led him to want a photo of the site from outside. Upon arrival, he immediately recognized Egyptologist Mohammad Yousef, who had been featured in the same documentary. Meeting him in person was already a highlight for him. And then, the magic unfolded. Mohammad Yousef shared artifacts found within the tomb, allowing us to hold and closely examine them—an extraordinary privilege you don’t get very often. Among the treasures were mummified cats, a preserved hand, and even a mummified foot. But the real surprise came when we stepped inside the tomb itself.
Normally closed to the public, the tomb is exclusively opened for Big Five’s clients. My son recognized the hieroglyphics he’d seen in the documentary. We stood where Egyptologists were deciphering the inscriptions, and we couldn’t resist taking many photos. My son explored every nook and every detail, soaking in the ancient history. Leaving was the hardest part—he wanted to stay in that moment forever.
The second remarkable experience on this journey was ascending Mt. Sinai. To reach it, we flew to Sharm El Sheikh, a coastal city known for its excellent snorkeling and diving spots—a perfect place to unwind before the climb. From Sharm, it’s about a 3-hour drive to the base of Mt. Sinai.
Our first stop was St. Catherine’s Monastery, nestled at the foot of the mountain. Inside the monastery, we learned about Moses and the burning bush (where God appeared to Moses) and explored relics related to St. Catherine, a defender of Christianity whose relics are in the Monastery. We also visited an interesting art collection and the “Well of Moses,” which added to the historical richness.
As midnight approached, we began our ascent. The trail, illuminated by our headlamps, led us upward. Along the way, Bedouins offered camel rides, but we chose to climb on foot. The weather was ideal—cool and breezy.
The initial part of the climb is deceptively flat, gradually revealing its steepness but manageable. The trail is well-maintained, and en route, you can find Bedouin tents where you can rest, sip hot tea or coffee, and chat with them.
The final stretch involves 750 steps—a test of endurance. But the anticipation of witnessing the sunrise from the summit kept us going. At the top, the wind was brisk, but the panoramic views were mesmerizing. We lingered, watching the sun emerge against the mountainous backdrop with orange and pink colors. The peacefulness of this moment was amplified by the stillness of the mountains.
This journey felt like an immersive history lesson—one that transcended Egypt’s ancient past.
