My colleague Gisela, is currently in Colombia. Her adventure started with some drama, however you wouldn’t believe me if I told you what happened. I’ll let Gisela explain.
Enjoy her words and video.
Colombia’s Caribbean Coast: The Journey Beyond Tayrona
Tayrona National Park was supposed to be the story.
With its jungle-covered mountains tumbling into the Caribbean Sea, Colombia’s most celebrated national park draws travelers from around the world. It was meant to be the centerpiece of my journey along the country’s northern coast.
Then, just before I arrived, the park closed.
Fortunately, Colombia has a way of rewarding travelers who embrace the unexpected.
What followed was not the journey I had planned, but perhaps a more revealing one. It led through fishing communities built above the water, conversations with artisans preserving generations-old traditions, encounters with Indigenous wisdom, and a coastal region quietly redefining itself through sustainability and conservation.
Life Between Lagoon and Sea
The detour began aboard a small boat crossing the vast waterways of the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta.
This is a world shaped by water. Mangrove forests stretch across the horizon. Fishing boats move between communities. The rhythm feels slower here, dictated less by schedules and more by nature itself.
Along the way, we met José, a blue crab fisherman whose family has worked these waters for generations.
As we drifted beside his boat, he explained not only how he catches crab, but how community life continues to operate much as it has for decades. Trust still carries value. Neighbors exchange goods. Payments are sometimes made days later. Relationships often matter more than transactions.
For visitors, it offers a glimpse into a way of life increasingly rare in the modern world.
Nueva Venecia: A Community Floating on the Water
Then came Nueva Venecia.
The village appears almost unexpectedly from the lagoon. Homes stand on stilts above the water. Boats replace cars. Wooden walkways connect families, schools, shops, and gathering places.
Yet what makes Nueva Venecia remarkable is not its architecture.
It is the fact that this is not a living museum or a carefully curated attraction. It is a thriving community that continues to evolve in harmony with the ecosystem that surrounds it.
Children navigate the waterways with ease. Fishermen repair nets outside their homes. Families gather in shaded spaces overlooking the lagoon.
Life unfolds not despite the water, but because of it.
Around Yolanda’s Table
One of the most memorable moments came not on the lagoon but around a lunch table.
Yolanda welcomed us into her home and prepared a traditional meal of fried fish, coconut rice, and patacones.
Like many of the best travel experiences, it was not the food alone that stood out. It was the conversation.
Stories about family, daily life, and community flowed as naturally as the meal itself. In a region celebrated for its landscapes, it was a reminder that people often leave the deepest impression.
Nearby, artisan Edrulfo continues another important tradition, transforming locally harvested junco into handcrafted works that reflect the cultural heritage of the wetlands.
The pieces are beautiful.
The knowledge behind them is even more valuable.
Where Ancient History Still Feels Present
Further east, the journey led to Tayronaka.
Ancient stone terraces hidden among the forest reveal traces of the Tayrona civilization that once flourished throughout this region.
Yet history here feels far from distant.
Later, while floating down the Don Diego River toward the Caribbean, we met a Mamo, one of the spiritual leaders who safeguard ancestral knowledge within the Sierra Nevada.
The conversation unfolded where river, jungle, mountains, and sea converge.
It was impossible not to recognize how deeply connected the region’s Indigenous communities remain to the landscapes that have sustained them for centuries.
Barranquilla’s Reinvention
The journey continued in Barranquilla, a city many travelers know only in passing.
What I discovered was a destination actively transforming itself.
Along the Magdalena River, former industrial spaces have given way to public parks, gathering spaces, and waterfront promenades. Areas once overlooked are becoming centers of community life.
The same commitment can be seen at Mallorquín, where restoration efforts have revitalized an ecosystem at the meeting point of river and sea.
Today, visitors can explore the wetlands, paddle through the waterways, and witness a remarkable example of environmental recovery.
It is proof that conservation is not only about protecting the wild places that remain, but also restoring those nearly lost.
The Artisans of Usiacurí
The final stop was Usiacurí.
Colorful streets and murals offer an immediate welcome, but the true story lies within the workshops scattered throughout town.
Generations of artisans have preserved the tradition of weaving Iraca palm into hats, jewelry, bags, and decorative pieces that have become synonymous with the community.
Sitting alongside local craftspeople, I quickly learned something every visitor discovers: what appears effortless is anything but.
Each piece represents countless hours of practice, patience, and craftsmanship.
The result is not simply a souvenir.
It is a tradition carried forward by hand.
The Story Beyond the Itinerary
I arrived in Colombia expecting Tayrona National Park to define this journey.
Instead, the most memorable moments happened beyond its borders.
They were found beside fishermen’s boats in the Ciénaga Grande. Around Yolanda’s table in Nueva Venecia. Along the Don Diego River. In the workshops of Usiacurí and the restored wetlands of Barranquilla.
Tayrona may have closed its gates.
The Caribbean coast opened countless others.
I just returned from my latest trip to Colombia – my 43rd visit, to be exact. This time it was a quick stop, just long enough to see Medellín’s ongoing transformation quietly unfolding in plain sight. I have to admit, writing this makes me feel like I’m channeling my inner New York Times travel editor….you know, those 36- or 48-hour city guides by Nell McShane Wulfhart? I love those articles. So here I am, ironically once again writing from a plane seat, sharing my best Nell McShane Wulfhart-style take on Medellín. No transformation tour, no museums, and definitely no Comuna 13 (which, sadly, has become Colombia’s new poster child for overtourism).
This time, it was four comunas – 14, 10, 6, and 3 – in 48 hours. This 36th visit to Medellín offered a completely new way to experience one of my favorite cities. From a community kitchen cooking class tucked away in a secluded neighborhood that doubles as a social impact project, to exploring the country’s largest private orchid collection on the way to the airport, to a coffee experience that skips the bean tasting in favor of farm-to-bean eating high up in the hills – this is the Medellín you HAVE to see.
The highlight? Comuna 3 and the inspiring Constellations Project. It took me 36 visits to finally hear someone say what truly needed to be said – and Javier in Comuna 3 did just that. There’s a significant generational gap there, especially among those aged 31 to 52, and bridging it will require thoughtful, responsible tourism. (More on that soon in a blog post and podcast episode.)
Oh and I’ve found a new favorite hotel in Medellín. I even have another cocktail named after me. (ego stroke)
Enjoy the video.
As Susie’s Colombian adventure comes to a close, we share part 2 of our dispatch. One of the conversations I love having is right before my colleagues head out. We talk about “breaking” the destination, like the ones with Gisela before she went to Ecuador, Volker before he went to Zimbabwe, Tatiana before she left for Jordan, Colin before he delved head-first into Sri Lanka… and Susie before she left for the interior of Colombia.
In this dispatch, we focused on Los Llanos and the emerging areas that represent the evolution of Colombia. I have been visiting Colombia since 2006 when we opened our offices there. The feeling I get every time a region opens is exciting, and I cannot wait to get down there. I had that feeling about San Agustin, about Macarena, Barichara, Maranilla, and now about Los Llanos. Despite the rain, Susie has been sending video after video, photo after photo, each with even more excitement with every report.
The best part is that Big Five’s operation in Colombia has a vast network of private planes to access the areas, knowing which plane to use when and with the best routing. Susie took the long, arduous drive just as I did in Illescas, so we know what works and what doesn’t. Once we saw the private airstrip we wanted to use, we now know which plane, from which airport, and on what route would work best to avoid the drive.
Enjoy the video, and stay tuned for new programs coming soon that will take you to Los Llanos!
A Sense of Accomplishment in Medellin and Cartagena
Dear Advisor Partners,
As we wrap up our dispatch from Colombia, I present part III, the final report from a magical 41st visit to Colombia. Leaving La Macarena, with my shoulder back intact, the reflection of what we just accomplished started to sink in. This wasn’t just a 12-year vision coming to fruition, this was an accomplishment that allowed me to finally relax, the anxiety leaving and routine returning. As we landed in Medellin before sunset, I was relieved to return to one of my favorite cities in Colombia, the city that invented the phrase transformation through tourism.
The familiar faces of Julio and Juan Carlos greeted us as we arrived, their beards with a few more strands of grey, yet their smiles brighter than ever. This visit to Medellin was more important than any other because of our visit to higher parts of Comuna 13 with friend and guide, Jason. The activity with Jason focused on the African heritage in Comuna 13, beyond the crowded and touristy parts of the neighborhood. This was actually forged a few years back during the Tourism Cares Summit in Medellin, where I met Jason’s bro, Freddy. We formed a great connection showcasing Comuna 13, as, after all, it wasn’t that far back that this area was a conflict zone. The highlight of this area however isn’t the story of violence, rather the story of coping through music. Jason and his family used drum beats and different styles of hip-hop music, merged with Reggaeton, to create a unique sound that has a sonic influence even on those that are not musically inclined. Jason has come a long way, born with tanks and violence in his community to now collaborating with leading hip-hop artists and other top musical acts. I joked with Jason to remember me when he walks the red carpet one day!
From Medellin, it was on to Cartagena to close out our adventure. You know, I believe everything happens for a reason, so when the rain washed out our boating day, something magical ensued, lunch prepared by our private chef in the home of the Botero family, which we often use for our travelers. The highlight was the best sunset ever, with a 360° view from the rooftop of the home. After the stress of pulling off the perfect visit to Macarena, Cartagena is where everything always falls into place, from our guide Vicky’s unforgettable energy to the culinary delights of the city. The highlight, thanks to my friend Carolina from OhLaLa, was meeting noted author Gabo’s nephew during a private lunch with access to the last 8 copies of his family memoir in the world, gifted exclusively to our group. Top that off with chocolate from the famous Abraham that denoted our entire journey from where the cacao was sourced to the wrapping.
Visit 41 is in the books, and I haven’t even shared our new plans of working with the late Anthony Bourdain’s guide in Cartagena. It involves ceviche and hammocks suspended from the top of trees.. stay tuned for that!
