In my last letter, we showcased part one of my colleague Tatiana’s dispatch from Jordan, where she started her adventure with her son, a recent graduate. Part two of Tatiana’s dispatch finds her and Carstenz in Egypt. Follow her journey as she ventures from a private tomb in Saqqara to hiking with the Bedouins. Our dispatch series offers a front-row seat into the narrative that makes up a Big Five journey.
Egypt is a destination that offers all the ingredients for a wonderful experience: great hotels, knowledgeable guides, and awe-inspiring sites.
My son recently graduated from high school, and visiting Egypt was one of his dreams. We meticulously prepared for this trip a year in advance, even encouraging him to learn Arabic through Duolingo. Our research included reading about Egypt, such as Agatha Christie’s book “Murder on the Nile,” and watching several documentaries related to the country, including “The Secret of Saqqara.” I aimed to build excitement for our journey.
Beyond the iconic pyramids and the temples of Luxor, Karnak Abu Simbel, etc, we had two extraordinary experiences that went beyond the usual tourist visits. Let me share them with you. Saqqara is an incredibly rich archaeological site, and it continually reveals new discoveries each year. One such discovery is the Whatye Tomb, prominently featured in a Netflix documentary (mentioned above). I recommend watching it, as it beautifully explains the story of Isis, Osiris, Hathor, and Horus—a foundational understanding when exploring Luxor.
To my son’s surprise, we visited the Whatye Tomb. He had no idea we were going there, but his enthusiasm from the documentary led him to want a photo of the site from outside. Upon arrival, he immediately recognized Egyptologist Mohammad Yousef, who had been featured in the same documentary. Meeting him in person was already a highlight for him. And then, the magic unfolded. Mohammad Yousef shared artifacts found within the tomb, allowing us to hold and closely examine them—an extraordinary privilege you don’t get very often. Among the treasures were mummified cats, a preserved hand, and even a mummified foot. But the real surprise came when we stepped inside the tomb itself.
Normally closed to the public, the tomb is exclusively opened for Big Five’s clients. My son recognized the hieroglyphics he’d seen in the documentary. We stood where Egyptologists were deciphering the inscriptions, and we couldn’t resist taking many photos. My son explored every nook and every detail, soaking in the ancient history. Leaving was the hardest part—he wanted to stay in that moment forever.
The second remarkable experience on this journey was ascending Mt. Sinai. To reach it, we flew to Sharm El Sheikh, a coastal city known for its excellent snorkeling and diving spots—a perfect place to unwind before the climb. From Sharm, it’s about a 3-hour drive to the base of Mt. Sinai.
Our first stop was St. Catherine’s Monastery, nestled at the foot of the mountain. Inside the monastery, we learned about Moses and the burning bush (where God appeared to Moses) and explored relics related to St. Catherine, a defender of Christianity whose relics are in the Monastery. We also visited an interesting art collection and the “Well of Moses,” which added to the historical richness.
As midnight approached, we began our ascent. The trail, illuminated by our headlamps, led us upward. Along the way, Bedouins offered camel rides, but we chose to climb on foot. The weather was ideal—cool and breezy.
The initial part of the climb is deceptively flat, gradually revealing its steepness but manageable. The trail is well-maintained, and en route, you can find Bedouin tents where you can rest, sip hot tea or coffee, and chat with them.
The final stretch involves 750 steps—a test of endurance. But the anticipation of witnessing the sunrise from the summit kept us going. At the top, the wind was brisk, but the panoramic views were mesmerizing. We lingered, watching the sun emerge against the mountainous backdrop with orange and pink colors. The peacefulness of this moment was amplified by the stillness of the mountains.
This journey felt like an immersive history lesson—one that transcended Egypt’s ancient past.
I love our Dispatch Series, as it is a firsthand account from the ground. So far, in 2024, we have done dispatch reports from Kenya, Uganda, Ecuador, and Colombia, with more to come. Our latest is a dispatch from Jordan and Egypt. My colleague Tatiana Johnston recently traveled to Jordan and Egypt with her son Carstenz, Big Five’s intern and proud recent graduate. Below is the first part of Tatiana’s trip report, capturing her experience in a capsule.
When my teenage son and I arrived in Jordan, we had no idea just how profoundly this adventure would touch our hearts. This journey not only gifted us with incredible memories but also strengthened our bond in ways we never imagined. Every day was epic, and each adventure was as amazing as the previous one.
Our journey began in Amman, where, after our long flight, we were delighted to see our names on a sign as we approached immigration. The Big Five airport agent greeted us warmly and efficiently and assisted us through the process, making our arrival seamless and stress-free. As we transferred to our hotel, we marveled at the city’s charm, passing by numerous white limestone houses that give Amman its nickname, the White City.
Our first adventure was north of Amman, where we visited the ancient city of Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman towns in the world. We walked through the grand streets, surrounded by giant columns. We were amazed at the impressive ruins of temples, theaters, and plazas, but I was more impressed by how much my son was interested in ancient history, asking all kinds of questions.
We continued to Wadi Rum, known as the Valley of the Moon. Here, we knew it was time for some adrenaline-pumping action with a desert safari. Riding in the back of a 4×4 truck, we drove the rugged terrain of Wadi Rum, exploring hidden canyons, ancient rock inscriptions, and dramatic rock formations. Here is where we learned about the life of the Bedouins, the desert’s indigenous people, and their rich cultural heritage. We finished our adventure by making a fire and drinking tea while watching the sun setting on the horizon. We spent that night in Martian domes, which are tents with huge windows that offer breathtaking views of the starry sky and the silhouettes of rock formations in the dark.
Early the next morning, we were transferred to the hot air balloon launch site, where we watched as the crew prepared the balloon for the flight. Once everything was ready, we gently ascended into the sky and floated. The panoramic views of the vast desert, with its towering sandstone mountains and endless stretches of red sand, were just magical.
We then continued to the Rose City of Petra and began our hike to see the famous Treasury. The one-mile trail to the Treasury is flat, making it an easy and enjoyable walk. You pass through a natural sandstone gorge, and at the end, you are surprised by the stunning facade of this Nabatean tomb known as the Treasury. But Petra has much more to offer beyond the Treasury, we hiked everywhere, climbing up to the ancient caves, exploring the Roman area of Petra and taking the 850 steps to the Monastery, another monumental structure. The journey to the Monastery was challenging but rewarding, with panoramic views that made every step worth it. One of the best parts of this hike, besides the views of the course, was making different stops along the way for water or for resting and conversing with the Bedouins. We bonded, talking about politics, about family, and about the future. They wanted to keep my son so he could become a Bedouin guide and work for them (spoiler alert: my son didn’t accept the offer).
So many Jordanians are waiting for more people to come and see their beautiful country, as many of them are related to the tourist industry, and the industry is suffering. They wanted me to convey a message to all of you that it is safe to visit Jordan and you will not regret it. Their hospitality added a unique and memorable dimension to our adventure.
We concluded the adventure with a visit to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, where you can effortlessly float in the mineral-rich waters. You can just lay there and read a newspaper. The mud has many therapeutic properties, enhancing the whole experience, and seeing the sunset by the Dead Sea was one of my favorite moments.
We have countless pictures documenting our journey, but what truly stayed in our hearts was the kindness and hospitality of the Jordanians. We traveled during the low season, so this meant fewer tourists, highlighting the need for tourism in this region despite their geographical challenges, which are unrelated to the current situation in the country. They genuinely miss their visitors, and their stories and smiles left a lasting impression on us. We are already planning our return to Jordan.
From time to time, I check on the level of borrowing among the tourism- focused countries just to see how much of their GDP is committed to interest payments due to organizations such as the IMF. You may wonder why I’ve chosen to allocate time for this among all the things I could be doing in a day. Don’t worry; many of you have asked me the same thing. First, would be to see how economic initiatives and tourism revenue can help repay this mounting debt, some of which are still lingering effects of the pandemic. The second reason is a bit more selfish, so I can call out these agencies for their predatory lending practices on our podcast, The Sustainable Voice®.
You can imagine, then, how big a deal the news from Argentina is for me. Argentina, the largest borrower to the IMF, with over $30 billion in outstanding loans, which equals around 5% of their GDP, announced on July 10 that they are expanding the initiative to open their skies to foreign carriers to operate unlimited routes and frequencies in Argentina. To this point, the state-run airline Aerolineas Argentinas holds the largest market share, making it essentially the only game in town. Anyone who has been to Argentina can see the magic, however, the one glaring weakness is the infrequency of flights to the more remote parts of Argentina.
This new announcement will add more choices and better fares for visitors to Argentina and is a path to economic growth. The largest part of this deregulation is that airline prices are now set by the open market as they are here in the US and in many other countries. The government will no longer set a price floor, and the increased competition should lead to better levels of service and more flexibility in fares. Open skies agreements were signed last week with regional partners; however, this broadens the reach and has the potential to change the landscape of how Argentina is connected to other countries in Latin America.
Now, I do understand that local unions are not necessarily delighted with the news. To them, I saw this. Tourism and the new ways Argentina would be included in custom itineraries featuring new destinations still represent the best way to repay the mounting debt to the IMF. Tourism revenue reached just over $8 billion in 2023 and is slated to grow by 10% a year. The importance of sustainable tourism, finding a balance, and avoiding over-tourism is crucial in this matter. This new deregulation has the potential to create access to more remote sections of the country, engaging the local culture where tourism doesn’t normally reach. It is the best path forward.
Stay tuned for new products as more routes and as this agreement comes to fruition.
Big Five Launches New Commitment in Costa Rica to Combat Overtourism
Company launches new programs and aligns with WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel Campaign
Big Five Tours & Expeditions (Big Five), a distinguished member of the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) is pleased to announce new Costa Rica Programs and its latest initiative in Costa Rica aimed at combating overtourism through the adoption of the WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel global campaign. With decades of experience in sustainable tourism, Big Five is renowned for its innovative approach to preserving cultural heritage and supporting local economies, and this new focus in Costa Rica builds on Big Five’s successes in Kenya, Colombia, Sri Lanka, Peru, and many other places.
Through its newly launched programs in Costa Rica, such as those featured in their signature “Pura Vida Family Touring” experience, Big Five is committed to promoting responsible tourism practices. These initiatives are designed not only to alleviate the pressures of overcrowding in popular tourist destinations but also to introduce travelers to the lesser-known, authentic charms of Costa Rica.
The WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel campaign serves as a guiding principle for Big Five’s efforts, emphasizing three pillars:
“I am always inspired by industry leaders who commit to preserving the cultural heritage of a country through responsible tourism,” said Ashish Sanghrajka, President of Big Five Tours & Expeditions. “I am so proud, as a regional WTTC member, to see the new Community Conscious Travel campaign started by someone I admire, Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio. Her initiative in Italy, combined with the WTTC global campaign, offers a roadmap to changing the narrative in Costa Rica. Fair Market prices are a must to allow livelihoods to not only be protected but to thrive through socially responsible tourism. Overtourism and commoditization only make the current challenging economy in Costa Rica worse. The indigenous communities in Costa Rica must have a seat at the table. Travel and tourism globally make up 1 in 10 jobs and, in some countries, 1 in 6. Those jobs must reach the communities who rightfully belong in the conversation, so tourism done right may protect their cultural heritage.”
Amid Costa Rica’s economic challenges exacerbated by fluctuating currencies and tourism-related job losses, initiatives like Big Five’s are pivotal in fostering sustainable tourism practices that benefit both travelers and locals alike.
