Big Five Launches New Commitment in Costa Rica to Combat Overtourism
Company launches new programs and aligns with WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel Campaign
Big Five Tours & Expeditions (Big Five), a distinguished member of the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) is pleased to announce new Costa Rica Programs and its latest initiative in Costa Rica aimed at combating overtourism through the adoption of the WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel global campaign. With decades of experience in sustainable tourism, Big Five is renowned for its innovative approach to preserving cultural heritage and supporting local economies, and this new focus in Costa Rica builds on Big Five’s successes in Kenya, Colombia, Sri Lanka, Peru, and many other places.
Through its newly launched programs in Costa Rica, such as those featured in their signature “Pura Vida Family Touring” experience, Big Five is committed to promoting responsible tourism practices. These initiatives are designed not only to alleviate the pressures of overcrowding in popular tourist destinations but also to introduce travelers to the lesser-known, authentic charms of Costa Rica.
The WTTC’s Community Conscious Travel campaign serves as a guiding principle for Big Five’s efforts, emphasizing three pillars:
“I am always inspired by industry leaders who commit to preserving the cultural heritage of a country through responsible tourism,” said Ashish Sanghrajka, President of Big Five Tours & Expeditions. “I am so proud, as a regional WTTC member, to see the new Community Conscious Travel campaign started by someone I admire, Andrea Grisdale of IC Bellagio. Her initiative in Italy, combined with the WTTC global campaign, offers a roadmap to changing the narrative in Costa Rica. Fair Market prices are a must to allow livelihoods to not only be protected but to thrive through socially responsible tourism. Overtourism and commoditization only make the current challenging economy in Costa Rica worse. The indigenous communities in Costa Rica must have a seat at the table. Travel and tourism globally make up 1 in 10 jobs and, in some countries, 1 in 6. Those jobs must reach the communities who rightfully belong in the conversation, so tourism done right may protect their cultural heritage.”
Amid Costa Rica’s economic challenges exacerbated by fluctuating currencies and tourism-related job losses, initiatives like Big Five’s are pivotal in fostering sustainable tourism practices that benefit both travelers and locals alike.
I often joke with advisors and their clients that we have a tracking device on the head wildebeest and the lead zebra of the migratory herds in East Africa, and it always gets a good chuckle. We notify them by Morse code when to start converging and where to start crossing. It may be a joke; however, think about what we will witness in the coming months: the greatest show on Earth. In what part of the world do this many living beings, not of the same species, behave in such a routine over and over, and in such concert? Where else can you find a symbiotic relationship such as that between the birds, the zebra, and the wildebeest with one common goal – preservation.
Knowing the movements of these herds is not a story of simply following a cycle, it is a science. For example, wildebeest travel 6 miles a day, every day, and can hit strides of up to 50 miles per hour in a burst. They are the true drivers of the herd movement; the others follow the wildebeest, relying on their scent and those annoying grunts and groans we hear as a form of communication regarding the path or dangers ahead. Step back and think about what we hear and what purpose those sounds serve. With the position of their eyes, Zebra has some of the best peripheral vision one would want. Their ears can turn in directions and hear at octaves humans simply can’t comprehend. Imagine being able to see and hear better than anyone, and every footprint, every heartbeat, every sound. This truly is the Greatest Show on Earth, for all the reasons we see and so many we don’t.
The best part is that the communication lines with guides on the front line in the bush have never been better, so when we see their reports, it is like you have a tracking device on the head wildebeest. We can pinpoint the exact spot the herds have reached with good proximity. In fact, I loved that just this morning, I was able to talk to one of my friends, who runs an amazing camp in Northern Serengeti. I told her the herds are due south of you, passing through the western corridor and approaching fast. “Are you ready ?” I asked. I started laughing when she told me that I may have been a zebra in my past life! We talked about all the rain in the Masai Mara and how a full river would impact the crossing. We even noticed that the herds were a few weeks behind their normal schedule, startled at how far they were from the crossing in the north, these amazing animals sensed what was happening and adjusted their pace.
So, get ready the show is about to begin!
This is a special week as I’m writing this from Washington D.C., just 5 blocks from Capitol Hill. I remember visiting our nation’s capital with my family. We toured the White House, stood where Martin Luther King gave his “I Have a Dream” speech, and where I read Abraham Lincoln’s Second Inaugural Address. It wasn’t until I got to Capitol Hill that I started thinking back to all those American history classes and all the lectures in college about the U.S. government. I would wonder what it was like to go to the hill after hearing it countless times on shows like “The West Wing”.
Fast forward to today, and I had the honor to participate in the USTOA Congressional Caucus on Capitol Hill to discuss specific bills pertaining to our industry, from DOT legislation to sustainable aviation fuel and everything in between. Much of the conversation focused on the unintended consequences of some of the legislation. While great work is being done to accurately measure the true contribution of tourism to GDP, so much more is needed. This close to election day, I have to say, I was shocked at the flurry of activity. The halls were as crowded as a high school hallway between classes.
What isn’t lost on me is writing this just a few days before Father’s Day in the U.S., my first without my father. I felt his presence today, and I am sure he was wondering the same thing I was as he watched me walk through the halls of that building….
How many stairs does this place have?!
Enjoy this week’s video, which is a personal message just as I was leaving Capitol Hill.
As Susie’s Colombian adventure comes to a close, we share part 2 of our dispatch. One of the conversations I love having is right before my colleagues head out. We talk about “breaking” the destination, like the ones with Gisela before she went to Ecuador, Volker before he went to Zimbabwe, Tatiana before she left for Jordan, Colin before he delved head-first into Sri Lanka… and Susie before she left for the interior of Colombia.
In this dispatch, we focused on Los Llanos and the emerging areas that represent the evolution of Colombia. I have been visiting Colombia since 2006 when we opened our offices there. The feeling I get every time a region opens is exciting, and I cannot wait to get down there. I had that feeling about San Agustin, about Macarena, Barichara, Maranilla, and now about Los Llanos. Despite the rain, Susie has been sending video after video, photo after photo, each with even more excitement with every report.
The best part is that Big Five’s operation in Colombia has a vast network of private planes to access the areas, knowing which plane to use when and with the best routing. Susie took the long, arduous drive just as I did in Illescas, so we know what works and what doesn’t. Once we saw the private airstrip we wanted to use, we now know which plane, from which airport, and on what route would work best to avoid the drive.
Enjoy the video, and stay tuned for new programs coming soon that will take you to Los Llanos!
This is part II of Gisela’s dispatch from Ecuador. Part one took us to the Amazon, which was where I first visited as a teen with my best friend in school, Fred. What an experience that was! Part II takes us to the famed Galapagos Islands.
For the longest time, the only known way to see the islands was by boat with mediocre food, bumpy rides, and amazing guides. Well, the boat product has evolved over the years, and with some great experiences available. However, I remember a commitment we made as a company almost 20 years ago to focus on land-based products in the Galapagos, as it aligned better with who we were as a company. That decision propelled Big Five to the cutting edge in the Galapagos, and we weren’t the only ones who thought so. Our esteemed guests loved the way activities could be tailored vs. a rigid schedule of activities, coupled with top naturalist guides and experiences that covered culinary and culture, in addition to the wildlife.
So it’s no surprise that our own Gisela Polo, currently on her way home from the Galapagos, summarized her return to Galapagos as:
Seeing the Galapagos the right way means spending more time in areas that are not always visited. It reminded Captain about his times as a child, seeing his grandfather on small yachts much like the ones Gisela used for full-day excursions from her lodge, in fact, she shared something the local captain told her:
“The money doesn’t always go to the communities when one visits the Galapagos, many times, it goes back to the corporations. Look at the food you are eating, my sister prepared that!, everything you are seeing, eating, and experiencing is from the local community.”
This was touching for Gisela and frankly reinforces the ill effects of commoditization affecting some of the more mass- market products in the Galapagos.
I loved that when I asked Gisela about her favorite parts of her visit, she didn’t start with the animals, she ended with them. She started with all the micro-entrepreneurs running local farms and serving local markets.
Enjoy the video for part II and make sure to ask Gisela to tell you more about her story.
I love our Dispatch series, it may be my favorite blog post. In my opinion, it’s a trip report for the modern era. Now, don’t get me wrong; I love a page-turner like everyone else. However, images and videos could literally mean a thousand words.
As I write this, our Big Five Latin America manager, Gisela Polo, is exploring Ecuador. While on her way to the Galapagos today to visit a few of our best land-based options, she sent detailed reports with images and videos of her time in the Amazon Jungle, specifically our favorite lodge, Napo Wildlife Reserve. Enjoy the video, which chronicles her adventure in the Amazon, from the excursions and the landscape to the food. And pay attention to the glass floor, the only one of its kind in the Amazon, and my favorite room at Napo.
Big Five has been operating in Ecuador since 1989. My late father loved Ecuador, and I remember as a child him telling me how much it connected with him as his stories went beyond the Galapagos. The country remains special to us beyond tourism as our very own team member, Tatiana Johnston, is an Ecuadorian native, having climbed every peak in her native country. Maybe that’s why at 16, I went there on my own and saw firsthand what my father experienced. It was the first of many trips back to Ecuador. Even during the pandemic, my first return to the international skies was to Ecuador in September of 2020.
Enjoy part I of Gisela’s Ecuador Dispatch
Chile has been near to my heart since I was in university learning about the regime in charge decades ago. In 1998, one of my favorite professors was part of the national security team for Presidents Kennedy, Nixon, Johnson, and Ford, all the way up to the first 100 days of Ronald Reagan. Can you imagine serving that many presidents from both parties during those years? It was this professor who got me within inches of taking the necessary exams to enter the foreign civil service. To me somehow learning about the death of JFK, the various crises, in Vietnam, and the deaths of MLK and RFK from someone who was in the Oval Office for all of it, was indescribable, and like a sponge, I had soaked it all in. Among the things we discussed at length during his lectures was the rise of Pinochet as Chile’s leader and the ramifications of his policies with US ties. We had conversations using declassified information to decipher if our government supported the coup and installing Pinochet, as the two were not mutually exclusive. In fact, my professor often said Chile was the key cog in the region, something that could be argued today as well.
Just recently, I was thinking about my professor as I read an article about Chile’s economic growth showcasing how the tourism export in 2022 was double that of 2019. This was something we talked about in 1998, countries that were transformed from failed or marginal players to regional powerhouses through an in-demand export. There is no better example of this than tourism, a $300 billion-plus economy and one of the strongest in Latin America. In Chile’s case, it comes with what we at Big Five see now as a paradigm shift, with foreign entities now owning or being major investors in some of the most well-known lodges in Chile, and the rise of smaller locally owned properties that bring Chile’s indigenous cultures forward, not just the natural beauty. It is this equation that needs to evolve and constantly rewritten to keep sustainable tourism front and center in Chile and part of the discussion as we get into the ethics of sourcing lithium for electric cars, something Chile is also a leader in.
This week, we showcase Chile, beyond Patagonia, beyond Atacama. This is the Chile that Big Five actively promotes, as it is the Chile that still tells the story of what my professor talked about. These are the parts of Chile that embrace the delicate history that formed the character you see today if you go beyond and onto the road few travel.
Enjoy the video, and explore our latest Tour Chile & Bolivia; Art, Wine and Salt
Connecting the Dots;
Last year, my colleague Gisela went in-depth through Bolivia and loved it. Who wouldn’t? Most people only explore the lake or the salt flats, however as a self-admitted history buff, diving into the history is what drew me in, especially around the 15th and 16th centuries. Yet where I connected the dots, quite literally, was in the astronomy in the Uyuni Salt Flats.
While attending university, I was considered a vector calculus nerd who loved astronomy and the math around tracking planetary movements (including the pinky rule). Now you have to understand studying in Tucson at UofA in those times was all about astronomy and still is today. The world’s largest telescope by diameter which still sits atop a peak in Chile among other places, was built during my freshman year and the honeycomb concept used to build the mirror from polished aluminum was pure genius. Every time I gaze at the celestial skies above the Uyuni, I find myself in front of that telescope, as if I have been teleported into the past, right to my sophomore year when I got to get a view of Jupiter’s moons through one of those huge telescopes. I could not believe the clarity, and it’s almost as if I could see those moons again looking at the sky above those flats.
In one of our team’s images of the night sky above Bolivia, I saw a glimmer of the Martian planet using my old textbooks and equations and a trusted app on planetary movements to verify that it was in fact Mars above Bolivia at that very date and just like that…I jumped into the past in university, talking to a few members of our ultimate frisbee team that worked on the rover that traversed the Martian surface in a joint project with several other prominent universities called the Pathfinder project. In a single moment, I traveled back in time to elementary school and a voluntary project I did in 3rd grade on the surface of Mars because I dreamed of being an astronaut after seeing my very first shuttle launch on TV that year, what great memories those were.
To this day, Bolivia takes me back to a time when I found my love for astronomy, which is the only subject that rivals my passion for history.
What will it do for you? Enjoy this week’s video.
Have you ever traveled to a destination where it seems like… the tourism cycle is set on a rinse-and-repeat setting? While you think of a few of those destinations try not to bash your head against a brick wall. For us, I would tell you that Argentina was on that list for a while, a magical place that just couldn’t get out of its own way, because it was so married to the same areas. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, it’s just that Argentina has so much more to offer. Today, the news is paralleled with economic updates which seem to come as frequently as tourism updates which is a good thing as Argentina’s economy and their reliance on tourism is complicated, not as straightforward as what you may see in Colombia, or Egypt for example.
Well, let’s unpack this. First, anyone familiar with Argentina knows there is much more to it than tango and waterfalls, and the accompanying video showcases some of those lesser-known areas in the north and along the western coast. A common misconception is that the cost of tourism is pegged to the Argentinian peso, which has been quite volatile since it was intentionally devalued by the current administration. My background is in finance and economics and the merits and faults of currency adjustments is a debate I love having; however, I won’t bore all of you here. What is important to know is that many services in the tourism industry are tied to other currencies including the USD, so a devalued peso actually makes things more expensive for any tourism-related service. My favorite article on this topic was a recent piece written by Bloomberg titled, “Argentina Inflation Near 300% Wipes Out Tourists’ Deep Discounts.” Some of you knew about the shortage in USD in Argentina around this time last year. Much has changed since then and now, anyone wanting a deeper dive is very much welcome to contact me as it’s a great topic to discuss. The broad stroke however is that Argentina, once considered inexpensive, has, like everywhere else, seen costs rise dramatically and this isn’t a unique anomaly, this was decades in the making. The pandemic simply accelerated this movement.
Beyond these headlines, some exciting trends are developing in Argentina on the tourism front. First, the length of stay has increased in the last 5 years by 14%. This is the first sign that travelers are willing to spend more days exploring beyond the known spots. For us, this is such a great validation, as going remote and pushing away from the norm has been the Big Five way for decades. What we now call ” #bigfivin “thanks to Angela Pierson.
Secondly, adventure tourism has risen the fastest since the pandemic, which we love seeing, and this, married with a return to cultural immersion, has caused daily spending to increase by 20% in just the last 2 years. In fact, spending habits for travelers focused on adventure and authentic remote experiences in Argentina surpassed pre-pandemic levels for Big Five guests right after the borders fully opened. This was the trend that started for us at the end of 2018 and continues today.
OK, I know, enough stats. Argentina has challenges ahead of it, from repaying IMF loans to curbing inflation. The following quote from the most recent study on Argentina’s tourism economy by German research firm Ströer sums up our thoughts pretty well.
“Argentina’s tourism industry is recovering from economic instability, with a focus on promoting its diverse landscapes and cultural heritage.”
Big Five has kept the lights on and looks forward to welcoming you in.
When we talk about the indigenous people of Latin America, what usually comes up are the Incas, the Maya, and even the Aymara. And the language we hear about the most is usually Quechua from the Incas. However, the language I have always been the most fascinated by is Guarani, specifically in Paraguay. This language is often overseen however variations of this dialect are still spoken in Argentina, Bolivia, and parts of Brazil. Being the most widely spoken indigenous language in Paraguay is what sets this amazing place apart in my opinion.
I remember a conversation with my late father about Paraguay and he was telling me a story of Jesuit history when he was exploring South America in the late 80s. He noticed cultures and dialects that arrived before the Jesuits and the need to not conform the way many in the world do when foreign settlers arrive (Now I was a child when had this talk for the first time, and at that time, what drove the point home for me was our last name not conforming to the more common Indian given names). When we added Paraguay as a destination to the Big Five collection, he and I revisited that conversation because it was the Guarani dialect that drew me in.
Beyond the dialect, I became fixated on Asunción because anyone that knows me, realizes I am a history nerd. Similar to sights in Mughal India, Cajamarca in Peru, Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka, and sites in ancient Egypt, the city of Asunción was a center In the 16th century, of the Spanish province after they fled Argentina and later played a key role in Paraguay’s independence. I remember having this amazing conversation with Mahen about the transformation taking place in South America today and how it has evolved over the past decades. My father being who he is, was quick to remind me that as a child, I couldn’t tell Galapagos apart from Botswana and that he was glad to see I learned “a few things.”
How fitting then, that Mahen’s avatar plays a role in the featured video.
When I was a child in Kenya, my late father, got me hooked on the 80’s TV show, The A-Team. There were a few well-known catchphrases, however, the one I loved the most was Lt. Peck’s “music to my ears”. Although quite common, it came to mind when we received the following update from our team in Brazil.
The Brazilian congress is analyzing the suspension of the decree signed by President Lula reinstating the visa requirement for holders of American, Australian, and Canadian passports to enter Brazil. Last Thursday, the federal government reached an agreement with congressmen and postponed the start of visa requirements until April 2025. For now, passport holders from the U.S., Canada, and Australia can continue traveling to Brazil for tourism, without any visa.
Brazil is one of those countries we love at times and scratch our heads at others. Through it all though, our team has a deep affinity to Brazil. For me personally and my colleagues will love this diatribe, it is about auto racing. You heard that right. It’s not about Neymar or the World Cup team, it is about Ayrton Senna, a driver I idolized growing up. May 1 is Senna Day, which coincides with Labour Day in Brazil. When Ayrton Senna tragically passed away in Italy in 1994, Brazil’s action to declare national holidays in his honor was unheard of. It said a lot about the people of Brazil, and even today, I find myself amazed at the ability of the Brazilian people to share Senna’s day with their national holiday.
I’ve been hooked on Brazil since 1994 and always felt for the people when there was either an upheaval or an action that negatively impacted the country which makes what I read about the visa postponement such delightful news. Anyone who tried to obtain a Brazil visa over the last few months when the government tried to implement the new scheme, knows it was not a ready system. It wouldn’t be fair to the amazing tourism industry in Brazil to pay the price for a poorly executed visa system. Postponing the visa requirement to April 2025 is such welcomed news that we had to share our excitement and cool new video with you.
Bem-vindo!
A – Acceptance: Embrace life’s changes with an open heart
Dear Advisors, Partners, and Friends
This is a very special Blog… A letter written 2 months ago by my fathers hands, in his office, alone with his thoughts and sheer reflection of the world and how we should all perceive and embrace every outcome as it is believed, in life all is as it is meant to be. Almost as he him-self knew he would be writing this blog, as so, please take note of the Date and Time it was written… exactly 60 days…almost to the hour when we said our final goodbyes.
*** *** Below is one of his last letters composed of his Outlook of Inspirational thoughts onto the world *** ***
From: Mahen Sanghrajka
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2024 1:50 PM
Subject: A – Acceptance: Embrace life’s changes with an open heart
As the sun gives light, the sensation gives birth to compassion, and the flowers always spread their fragrance. The same way may your New Year be a pleasant one for you and everyone every day, every moment.
In the spirit of gratitude and respect for these remarkable individuals, we acknowledge the invaluable contributions of Saints, Swamis, and Other Distinguished writers who have enriched our lives with their timeless wisdom.
Also, to thank all of you for being a part of this uplifting journey with us.
In 2024, we’ll board on an alphabetical journey filled with positivity and wisdom. Each message we’ll send you will be a message centered around a word that begins with the letter. Together, we’ll explore valuable lessons and insights that can enrich our lives at this age and beyond.
A – Acceptance: Embrace life’s changes with an open heart.
Acceptance is a fundamental aspect of personal growth and well-being. It involves acknowledging and welcoming the various changes and transitions that life brings, whether they are positive or challenging.
Here are some more details about the concept of acceptance:
Understanding Change: Change is an inevitable part of life. It can take many forms, including changes in relationships, career, health, or personal circumstances. Acceptance starts with recognizing that change is a natural and unavoidable part of the human experience.
Embracing Impermanence: Nothing in life is permanent. Embracing Acceptance means understanding that circumstances, people, and even our-own feelings and thoughts are in a constant state of mix.
By accepting impermanence, we can find greater peace and resilience in the face of change.
Letting Go of Resistance: Resistance to change often leads to stress, anxiety, and suffering. Acceptance involves letting go of resistance and the desire to control every aspect of our lives.
Instead, it encourages us to flow with life’s currents and adapt to new situations.
Cultivating Resilience: Acceptance is closely linked to resilience. When we accept change, we become better equipped to deal with adversity and bounce back from setbacks.
Flexibility, resilience allows us to navigate life’s challenges with grace and determination.
Self-Compassion: Being kind and compassionate toward yourself is an essential aspect of Acceptance. It’s important to recognize that it’s okay to have mixed feelings about change and to treat yourself with gentleness during times of transition.
Acceptance can be challenging, especially when dealing with major life changes or loss. Seeking support from friends and family can provide a valuable space to process your feelings.
Embracing change and practicing acceptance can lead to personal growth and transformation. It allows you to develop a deeper understanding of yourself and others.
In summary: Acceptance is a mindset and practice that encourages us to greet life’s changes with an open heart and a willingness to learn and grow.
“However, whatever, whenever, wherever, learn to Adjust, Adapt and Accept.”
Stay tuned for letter B
Mahen Sanghrajka
We have prepared a short AI of our Beloved Father, Founder & Friend in Loving Memory.
As the holy month of Ramadan begins, we wish all our close friends and colleagues whom I often call extended family, Ramadan Kareem.
رَمَضَان كَرِيم
This week, I was supposed to be in Egypt with the family for one of my last two spring breaks with my son. Circumstances however were such that the trip had to be pushed out although I will certainly be back in Egypt after ILTM Cannes later this year, one of our Egypt specialists will be there this summer. Egypt is like home for me, since I was a teenager, and many of you know my mother is from Sudan while Dad and I are from Kenya, so Egypt has never been far. And those of you who have been to Egypt either with clients or on one of our educationals that I lead every year, you have met Gamal who is like my second father. You have met my sisters, Farah and Nour, and you have met my other mother, Sally, who are my second family.
Archaeology is the center of tourism in Egypt. New Discoveries are at an all-time high, from an average of two discoveries a decade in the early 20th century to averaging six a year since 2018. This pace of discovery is a major contributor to the PR driving tourism interest in the destination. One of the challenges Egypt faces is the invisibility of the local excavators and archaeologists, the ones making the actual discoveries not the media rounds. These workers are doing the most important work, and Big Five is committed to creating fair wage jobs in archaeology for them where the fees paid to open a tomb go towards paying the salaries of these local workers, instead of into one person’s pocket or to an external organization. We want clients to have a front-row seat and even get involved in the exploration of new discoveries. On my podcast, the Sustainable Voice, my cohost, Leigh, and I recently dedicated an entire episode to this very topic, which is live now for your listening pleasure.
I share a video we took at the end of last year as we were the first ones into this burial chamber that was discovered just two months prior. Since our country manager Gamal in Egypt is an archaeologist by degree, we get to meet him and his fellow alumni and their teams. I am so excited about this new initiative.
With every, effort, every journey, every experience all tied together …. brings full circle a commitment to Egypt my father started more than four decades ago.
Enjoy this Video
In the third and final dispatch from my annual East Africa adventure with our advisor partners, I find myself back in Uganda, one of my favorite places. My love of this country goes far beyond the amazing gorilla interactions and biodiversity. It’s the people. Now before you roll your eyes, let me explain.
Back in July 2003, just after I was married, my wife and I were on our way to Africa. En route, we stopped in London to visit her grandparents. For those of you don’t know, Purvi’s family was forced out of Uganda, among the many thousands of Indians Idi Amin exiled. Her grandparents, past 100 years in age, recounted their experience in detail. As I was from Kenya, my family and were very familiar with Idi Amin and what was happening there. This was the first time, however, that I heard this story firsthand, and I hung onto every word. As I think back to that time, its amazing how far Uganda has come with tourism now a top five export and foreign investment welcomed.
There are a few countries in the world that exemplify the power of tourism, Rwanda, Colombia, and recently Sri Lanka and Uganda. These are modern miracles, transformed by tourism, and the benefits include Uganda’s relative stability and a growing gorilla population. The partnership between the gorilla trekking initiatives in Bwindi and the community partnership with the Batwa tribes is an ambitious initiative with a clear goal in mind. It is this transformation that draws me into countries like this. They are real-life examples of sustainable tourism at work. Of course, it’s not perfect, then again when is anything absolutely without roadblocks.
Then there is the gorilla experience. This latest visit was a bit different. During my habituation experience, my guide, Lamech, was a familiar face. Pre-pandemic, we were on a previous trek together in a different part of Uganda. Though we had not spoken in years, we each remembered that time and were both grateful to see that the other was still in this industry post-pandemic. Even the experience was different from all previous experiences in both Rwanda and Uganda. This time, I revisited a family I had been tracking for a year. I fully expected the Silverback to be challenged as the Blackback was almost ready last visit. Instead, as you will see in the accompanying video, I had the honor of seeing a 3-week-old gorilla, brought into this world by one of the older females. Watching each mature male come down off the tree and visit with the mother and baby, even hugging, was a sight I still can’t stop thinking about. For the many times I have tracked the gorillas in both Rwanda and Uganda, I may be a bit desensitized to the adrenalin and impact. Nope, it’s still the same rush.
My first interaction with the Samburu tribes of northern Kenya was as a child. Back then, the experience was not as immersive as it is now. In the years since, and the development of the Northern Rangelands Trust, the experience is more authentic, and more contrived, depending on whether you are in a game reserve or a private conservancy, which camp, and the operator.
I first met Storm and Rob when they were in Shimla, India, working at a historic hotel resting at the foothills of the Himalayas. Originally from South Africa, this couple fell in love with Kenya over a decade ago and ran a luxury camp in Laikipia that we love to use. Fast forward, and they have now developed their own camp deep in Samburu land near the boundaries of the Matthews Range. The fact that they opened near the end of the pandemic, told me it was a labor of love, and the size of the risk they were taking illustrated how committed they were to this camp.
I knew my visit would be magical, but I had no idea how magical. When their 12-year-old son Angus was the first to greet everyone with a smile that could shine through the atmosphere, I knew it was the right decision to visit. Not only was it great to reconnect with Storm and Rob, I also saw just how committed they were to the Samburu people they employ, a model Big Five has followed and gravitated towards for many years. Our second dispatch showcases this experience, which as I write this, still gives me goosebumps.
I’ve been on safari since I was 4 years old, and this experience is right up there with my first safari. Enjoy the video!
So they say, and in certain countries, it is a necessity due to a long period of turmoil or what seems to be a series of false starts. The fact is that countries that endure these periods don’t waver on the higher commitment to sustainable tourism which is a topic for a Master Class in itself. Countries that fit that bill include Egypt, Colombia, Uganda, and Rwanda; however, a country that defines enduring, but is often left out of the conversation, is Sri Lanka.
Interestingly enough, my colleague Colin, who happens to be a former guide in India and the sub-continent for many years, knew there was so much more to the country and began showcasing Sri Lanka as a Big Five destination as early as 2009 amid the global economic collapse. Colin had guided many times through India and Sri Lanka, and there was just something about the destination that drew him in. Is it the mythological story of Lord Hanuman leaping off the peaks or the resting lion’s head placed so perfectly at the turn of the era that it is almost perfectly aligned with the gateway to Asia? Or maybe it’s the ancient capital that draws so many similarities to the ancient kingdoms nearby. It also could be the history of ancient crowns with the vivid story of their ascent and well-documented collapse. No matter the topic, the era, or the historical context, there seems to be a direct and indirect correlation back to Sri Lanka that dates to the turn of the common era and before.
In recent history, Sri Lanka has not had an easy road. In the 15 years we’ve operated there, it’s had calamities from the well-documented civil conflict to the recent political unrest. While most countries were given the chance to recover post-pandemic, Sri Lanka did not have that opportunity until now. The future is bright and the times we have been patiently waiting for are here, with Sri Lanka a shining star in our trending destinations of 2024.
Is there a particular you are asked almost daily, something so frequently asked that you rank it on the same level as “Are we there yet?” What would that question be and does your answer vary over time? Is it based on who is asking? Are you the consistent type that responds with the same answer down to the syllable and word count? For Big Five the question is centered around when we will begin actively offering Japan. I think I get that question at least twice daily and have had to politely decline most requests.
Now, you may be wondering if I am certifiable or just plain nuts. Though there is a plausible reason for both in my case, the math is the real reason, and it never lies. When Japan’s borders first opened, we focused on letting those who postponed their pre-pandemic journeys access to be among the first to explore Japan. When we started to accept general inquiries, we noticed some issues with the infrastructure short-circuiting due to demand outstripping supply. When we dug deeper, we saw repeated patterns of stop-sell notices, and then announcements of new tourism taxes to slow the tourism momentum to a more manageable level. We worked for 50 years to earn your trust, and we don’t take it lightly. We show it with actions over simply telling you to trust us, and in this case, waiting was the right thing to do.
The shortage of guides, drivers, and tourism staff in general is more complicated than just over-tourism. The number of qualified guides in Japan (qualified is the keyword) dropped 60% from pre-pandemic to today. During the pandemic, many of the best guides left for other industries. Now in other countries, this was to temporarily replace lost income, however, in Japan, the reason is more obvious – to avoid a 3-year gap in the resume. As the Toyo Woman’s Cristian University said, “High-quality guides who can really look after customers are the most important, and they are definitely in short supply… The value guides can bring is to turn people into Japan fans. With their language skills and deep understanding of the country’s charms, they can convey Japan’s appeal to the world.” This was the main reason we waited, out of respect to the norms of the culture, and to allow the best guides to shine. We have always believed less is more, and that is more of a truth in Japan than anywhere else.
We are finally at a point where we are comfortable setting realistic expectations and accepting requests for Japan where we are the right fit. We have some amazing new experiences in the pipeline including a few President’s Picks aimed at those who are active and want to go beyond Tokyo and Kyoto.
Beginning with our first blog of 2024, we put together an ultra-high-resolution video showcasing our top trending destinations for 2024. It is a bit longer than we normally design; however, we think you won’t mind as it is a gift to the senses. So, turn up the volume and sit back. Some of the destinations, such as South Africa, Colombia, and East Africa, were expected at the top of this list, and we are delighted to see Peru back at the top, too.
The two that surprised us most were Egypt and Sri Lanka. As everyone knows, Egypt’s tourism slowed down toward the end of 2023. Thankfully, we are noticing a better understanding of regional geography and are elated to see Egypt rising again as ideology separates Egypt from its neighbors. We’ve been waiting for Sri Lanka to emerge, and it seemed that every time there was an ascent, something would happen to derail that. This is the year for Sri Lanka, and I, for one, cannot wait. It’s a destination where Big Five has operated for over 15 years, and in fact, the Spirit of Big Five Foundation supported a project there from 2017 to 2020.
Sri Lanka was also the inspiration behind the launch of our AI-powered sustainability process, in which one of our projects is selected and supported by one of our journeys known as, GIB 5.0.
Here’s to the trending destinations for 2024. We look forward to #bigfivin with you.
A Mineshaft and Rope
As I begin part III of our Egypt dispatch, I think back to a conversation I had about 15 years ago. Before I explain further, I want to tell you about my first visit to Egypt as a teen. I was a math nerd in school, so as I walked through the different sights, all I could see were geometric shapes and protractor angles. I know, I know… you are likely wondering who still says protractor. It’s true, I saw nothing but angles, obtuse and acute, and even a few right angles. Never in a million years did I think 30 years later, I would be writing about this. Something else happened on that visit, however. I felt a connection to Egypt that was either driven by my unhealthy obsession with Indiana Jones or by this sense of discovery and rewriting history, challenging what we thought was true.
Now, let me fast forward to 15 years later…, In the Valley of the Kings, access to private tombs was the norm, with the fees set arbitrarily, usually by one person who happens to be well known. One of the challenges Egypt faces is the invisibility of the local excavators and archaeologists, the ones making the actual discoveries, not the media rounds. These workers are doing the most important work, and Big Five is committed to creating fair wage jobs in archaeology for them where the fees paid to open a tomb go towards paying the salaries of these local workers instead of into one person’s pocket or an external organization. I had frequent conversations with our Egypt country manager, himself an archaeologist by degree, about getting access to the newest finds and sharing any articles and videos when news broke about a new excavation or a discovery of a new tomb.
These conversations have become more frequent in recent years because archaeology is the central driver of tourism to Egypt, it is the best form of PR there could be. New discoveries are at an all-time high, averaging two discoveries a decade in the early 20th century to averaging six a year since 2018. I wanted to harness this while lifting the local excavation teams and archaeologists who were making these discoveries. This vision started to take shape during the pandemic when Netflix showcased the amazing documentary The Secret Tomb of Saqqara, which showcased a tomb found in 2018. When we realized the same crew who was taking the viewers through in the documentary would be our guides, I was overjoyed. It was where I got to meet the lead archaeologists and have them explain what they saw. It fueled my interest in getting access to more of the undiscovered.
Fast forward to 2023, and this vision is finally taking shape, as you will see in the latest video. We were dropped down a mine shaft to a mummy chamber that was just discovered in Saqqara two months ago. Thirty meters above us, the excavation work carried on, and down below, the lead archaeologist, Dr. Mohammed, showed us around with a light telling us what they found when they first entered. This was the ultimate storytelling experience, and it was exactly what I had in mind. Best part is that we support the jobs of close to 50 workers with one visit and made a commitment to continue doing the same as the next chapter in our sustainable commitment in Egypt.
Enoy the video!
Never Just Another Temple
Upper Egypt holds a special place for me, and part II of our Egypt dispatch takes place in Aswan and Luxor, and of course, Abu Simbel. While the pyramids may be the calling card for Egypt, it is Upper Egypt, Luxor in particular, that holds the heartbeat of Egyptian history. Anyone traveling to Egypt already has a list of their must-sees, however, Luxor, and especially Abu Simbel, should be included as these two locations represent what I believe to be the heartbeat of Egypt’s history.
Now, before you say what about Aswan, don’t worry, I am about to talk about that. The British military occupied Egypt in 1882 and retained control until 1956. Winston Churchill first entered Egypt in 1898 when he was traveling to my mother’s native Sudan and his first stay at the famous Old Cataract Hotel was in 1902, shortly after the hotel opened. Agatha Christie, the famous author, first visited Egypt in 1910 and also stayed at the famous hotel in 1933. This was the inspiration for her renowned book, “Death on the Nile,” released in 1937. This is where I love to slow things down, allowing time to process what we’ve already seen.
Yet, I found myself perplexed on this particular visit. On our return from Abu Simbel, during the shuttle ride from the plane in Aswan to the terminal, I overheard an over-eager traveler, who seemed to assume her opinion was everyone’s, share that Abu Simbel was ‘just another temple.’ She then proceeded to tell whoever would listen that she was “templed out,” and we would be too after our visit to Luxor. Clearly this traveler wasn’t a Big Five client and didn’t see Egypt the right way (the value of a great travel advisor proven yet again!). I couldn’t believe what I was hearing and checked out her comments right after because I couldn’t fathom somebody even suggesting Egyptian landmarks were that common and low on the experience totem pole.
So, enjoy the video from Upper Egypt, and you tell me… if any of this looks like “just another temple.”