I Love Kandy

Part II of our Sri Lanka dispatch takes Tatiana’s journey further south. Her notes take you along to meet the people she met, and seeing first hand how these meetings were so impactful. Last dispatch, I would normally say a destination deserves our attention, however in Sri Lanka’s case, I think it would be more appropriate to say she has earned our attention.

Enjoy the video and part II

My trip to Sri Lanka – Part 2
By Tatiana Johnston

We arrived in Kandy, my fourth UNESCO World Heritage Site. What a colorful and captivating city. My first stop was a local market. I love markets as there’s always so much happening. They’re the vital pulse of any town, a true feast for the eyes with vibrant arrays of fruits and vegetables in every size and shape imaginable, each exuding unique aromas and scents. Fresh produce is everywhere, and the cheerful voices in Sinhalese invite you to sample and buy their goods. If you love mangoes, this will feel like paradise. I ate the most unbelievably delicious mangoes every single day.

My guide, Chami, picked a mango that I wouldn’t normally choose, and simply said, “Trust me.” And wow, he was right! I also discovered jackfruit: incredibly juicy and flavorful, with a taste that’s hard to describe, a mix of pineapple, papaya, and cucumber. When unripe, it’s cooked as a vegetable accompaniment. I tried rambutan, which resemble lychees, and locals are especially proud of the variety of bananas they grow, big, small, red, yellow, and everything in between. This is also a spice-lover’s haven, influenced by Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Indian culinary traditions.

Afterwards, I visited a local home for a traditional meal infused with tropical spices and rich Kandyan flavors. I met Krishanti, the lady of the house, along with her husband, and was especially moved by their beautiful 80-year-old grandmother, who still actively helps in the kitchen. She shared a story about meeting an American student in her youth with whom she practiced her English.

They welcomed me warmly, and we chatted casually. I felt completely at ease. I saw photos of their wedding, met their two daughters, grandchildren, and even the newest addition: a baby born just a few months ago. One grandchild came home from school with a colorful backpack and a beaming smile, filling the space with joy. It was such a treat to be part of this strong multigenerational family, living ordinary lives just like ours, and I felt honored to share a few moments with them.

Krishanthi, and her radiant, honest, and warm Sri Lankan smile allow me to step into the kitchen, and we talked about ingredients and she let me choose the vegetables for our meal, which was prepared using a traditional firewood stove. They showed me an ancient grinding technique called “miris gala” and they cooked everything in clay pots. According to them, a true Sri Lankan curry gets its unique finishing flavor from those pots, along with an abundance of spices and coconut milk. It was such a special, memorable day — I felt like I was visiting my aunt’s home for lunch.

That night I stayed at Taru Villas, a charming boutique hotel that once belonged to a noble family. Each room was uniquely decorated, blending old and new elements, and I was welcomed with a mango popsicle — such a refreshing treat in June’s heat!

Later, I visited the Temple of the Tooth, located in the heart of town, with the Mahaweli River on one side and the bustling city of Kandy on the other. This used to be the starting point for the grand parades honoring Buddha, as Kandy was the royal capital until the 19th century. I learned that the sacred tooth relic of Buddha symbolizes faith and power, and that whoever possessed it had the divine right to rule. The relic arrived in Sri Lanka in the 5th century, it was hidden across different regions, and eventually found its home in Kandy in the 16th century, where it remains until today. This relic is the city’s greatest pride. Stone-carved elephants flank the entrance protectively. The temple spans three floors, and on the lesser-visited second and third levels, I discovered a treasure trove of antiques — clothing, jewelry, tools, manuscripts, and other historic artifacts. I loved admiring the intricacy of each item, their craftsmanship surviving centuries.

After that, I walked to Queen’s Hotel, a once 19th-century property built as the Governor’s residence during the British rule. It later hosted distinguished guests who arrived by train, many on their way to visit the nearby tea plantations. It was there where I met Donald, a local resident with a Scottish name, who gave me a unique glimpse of the city’s timeless streets. We wandered down small alleys, stopping at places that reflect how locals unwind and dine after work. We visited the Royal Bar Hotel’s café, another iconic establishment with a colonial atmosphere. One room was filled with historic photos showcasing how Kandy has evolved over time. We passed Catholic and Protestant churches, mosques, and Buddhist temples, all coexisting peacefully side by side. We explored the everyday rhythm of local life, saw where people shop for dinner, and dined at a lesser-known restaurant where we tried “ulundu vadai”, savory lentil donuts with a surprising mix of spices and “dosai”, a giant crepe served in a pyramid shape, perfect for dipping into a variety of sauces.

Later, we hopped into a tuk tuk and climbed a hill for a breathtaking view of the city at sunset. A young couple was capturing their final photos against the radiant backdrop, and seeing their joy made me smile. I made sure to wish them happiness before we ended the evening with drinks at Helga’s Folly, a wild, whimsical, art-filled anti-hotel where Helga still resides. It was truly eccentric and utterly unforgettable.

That night I stayed at King’s Pavilion Hotel, nestled above the city with panoramic views and surrounded by lush forest. The hospitality was as heartwarming as ever.

The next morning began with a peaceful yoga session offered by the hotel, followed by a train journey to Hatton, the Tea Country. The ride was delightful, offering fresh perspectives of the city and passing through small villages, where children and adults waved at us as we passed. I gazed out at the spectacular tea plantations, one of Sri Lanka’s treasures. Chami met me at the station, and we drove to a lake that I needed to cross to reach my next destination: the Relais & Châteaux Tea Trails. I stayed at Castlereagh, one of five properties, each with its own distinctive charm. With only five rooms, it felt wonderfully intimate. I visited three of the five and adored them all with spacious accommodations, breathtaking views, and personalized service. The chef talks to you daily to discuss your meal preferences, crafting dishes with vegetables and spices grown right on the estate. You can even arrive from Colombo by seaplane. I had the chance to witness a sea landing and after that I think I might try that next time!

To cross the lake, you can take a motorboat or kayak.  I chose the boat and arrived in time for a lovely al fresco lunch overlooking the lake and forest. The hotel has several walking trails, and naturally, I couldn’t wait to explore. Each trail passes small villages, serene shrines, and picturesque temples, culminating in the stunning tea plantations, like a tapestry covering the hills, neatly kept with small narrow paths among them used by the collectors to efficiently pluck the leaves, they are the custodians of this area, mostly women, wearing colorful dresses and carrying the baskets on their backs. Despite their busy work, they smiled and waved at me. Such lovely people!

My favorite moment came as I walked back to the hotel and befriended groups of schoolchildren. They were eager to practice their English, and we shared plenty of laughter and smiles. When it started to drizzle, they sweetly offered to share their umbrellas with me….what a beautiful gesture.

The next morning, I immersed myself further into the world of Ceylon tea, observing its production and learning the refined art of tea tasting. The resident Tea Planter led a perfectly paced exploration of tea cultivation’s colonial roots, its intricate manufacturing process, and the creation of varied flavor profiles to suit diverse palates. The experience concluded with a private tasting…. and just like that, I was hooked. Tea became my new favorite drink, and Sri Lankan tea is now my preferred choice.

Leaving was bittersweet, but the journey continued,  off to explore one last gem, the coastal paradise of Sri Lanka.

Chami took me along a scenic, off-the-beaten-path route, and I took time to walk parts of it while he patiently waited for me. We arrived at Cape Weligama, a hotel set on 12 acres of land overlooking the Indian Ocean. The views were absolutely stunning. From there, I continued on to Galle — my last UNESCO World Heritage Site of this trip.

Along the way, we stopped to try the famous King coconut. I drank the juice, and Chami asked if I wanted to eat the coconut meat. I hesitated, having tried coconut before and not expecting much — but King coconut was a revelation. Bright orange in the outside, it was nothing like regular coconut: rich, savory, and silky soft meat inside.

We visited a small farm owned by a young couple. The husband had cared for his parents until their passing and inherited the land. He now grows cinnamon. I learned that Sri Lanka is the largest producer of this spice. Several locals told me that while Sri Lanka has many tea competitors, its cinnamon is unmatched in quality. I watched how the bark is harvested and peeled before drying it. Of course, I tried a cup of cinnamon tea, truly the best I’ve had. When I mentioned my love for King coconut, the farmer eagerly climbed one of his palms and brought me a fresh one. His wife was equally delightful. She showed me how to grind coconut with onions, paprika, and lemon, a simple, delicious blend you can add to any meal. She also prepared manioc, which I tasted with the coconut mixture, absolutely unforgettable.

Galle is breathtaking. Its charm lies in the old city nestled within the fort built by the Dutch. The layout and atmosphere immediately reminded me of Cartagena in Colombia, another UNESCO site. Both are encircled by historic forts and adorned with colorful houses, quaint coffee shops, vibrant restaurants, and eclectic boutiques. You can easily explore on foot, and the vibe is wonderfully relaxed. I wandered past the clock tower, Dutch churches, Buddhist temples, mosques, and the iconic white lighthouse.

In the afternoon, I met Shanjei, who helped me discover Galle’s true essence through a walking tour. He doesn’t call himself a guide; meeting him felt more like reconnecting with a storytelling friend. We visited the old Dutch hospital, now a lively restaurant complex with sea views. I heard fascinating tales of Dutch privateers (legalized pirates), Portuguese adventurers, and Muslim gem traders. It was a great afternoon that make me see Galle with different eyes!

I stayed in two different centrally located hotels. One night at the Galle Fort Hotel, with suites encircling the pool. What impressed me most was how thoughtfully antiques were integrated into the décor. The other was Taru Villas, another beautiful colonial boutique hotel. I especially loved the seating area adorned with incredible paintings and relics. One thing worth highlighting is Sri Lanka’s widespread awareness of sustainability and recycling truly admirable.

Later that afternoon, I walked to the fort walls to watch the sunset. I wasn’t alone; many locals were also winding down their day, eating ice cream with their families, children running joyfully around, young couples hand in hand, and passionate photographers chasing the last glimpse of sunlight. We were all there, captivated by the waves, the sun, and this beautiful country of Sri Lanka…

Ayubowan

Welcome to 2025 Sri Lanka Dispatch Part I

My fellow Big Five colleague Tatiana Johnston was just in Sri Lanka exploring what Big Five does on ground. Stay tuned for an exciting three part dispatch. As a former guide, Tatiana brings a unique perspective to the sights of what we consider to be an emerging cultural giant. I had the pleasure of meeting  his excellency, Mahinda Samarasinghe, Sri Lanka’s ambassador to the US while I was in DC as part of a congressional caucus for the travel industry. My other colleague, Colin Rose, a former guide himself, has talked about Sri Lanka for decades when he used to take guests through there as a guide. It’s been the driving force behind Big Five offering this amazing destination for almost 20 years now. We have seen the victories, and the struggles she has been through, and can’t wait to tell you all about the adventure, mythology, and sustainability in Sri Lanka. Enjoy Tatiana’s thoughts below and stay tuned for parts II and III of this dispatch.

My Journey through Sri Lanka

By Tatiana Johnston

Despite its modest size—roughly equivalent to the state of Indiana—Sri Lanka boasts an impressive eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Eight may not seem like a large number at first, but consider that India—roughly 50 times bigger than Sri Lanka—has 34 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In that context, Sri Lanka’s eight sites are remarkably impressive for such a small country. I was fortunate to visit five of them on this trip, and perhaps you will discover which one (or ones) became my favorite.

I arrived in Colombo early in the morning, greeted by my airport representative with a radiant smile. She did all my  immigration and customs formalities while I relaxed in the VIP lounge, already sampling my first Sri Lankan coconut delicacies. Stepping outside, the warm, humid air wrapped around me like a welcome hug—a sensation I cherish, especially coming from a dry climate.

Soon I met my guide, Charmi, whose warm smile and professional demeanor instantly put me at ease. I didn’t know then that he would become more than just a guide—he was my teacher, mentor, brother, and even doctor. We spent countless hours discussing Buddhism, politics, history, geography, flora, fauna, and the vibrant life of Sri Lankan. His knowledge and passion made him a true ambassador of his country. I felt incredibly lucky to have met him.

On the way to the hotel, mango and papaya trees waved at me as we passed. The Wallawwa Hotel, reminiscent of a traditional Dutch building, was surrounded by lush gardens and even had a cricket field—the nation’s favorite sport. It was the perfect place to unwind, recover from the long flight, and ease into the new time zone.

One of the first things I learned was how to greet in Sinhala: “Ayubowan”, meaning “may you live long.” It struck me as profoundly beautiful—Sri Lankans wish each other longevity, regardless of who you are or where you come from. In contrast, many languages offer only a “good morning.” This simple greeting reflects the warmth and generosity of the Sri Lankan spirit.

As a history lover, visiting temples is a true delight. My first stop was Anuradhapura, one of the most sacred cities in Sri Lanka and my first UNESCO site. You could easily spend days here—each temple is a living museum wrapped in spiritual serenity.

I was awestruck by the tallest stupa in the world and the oldest temple in Sri Lanka, dating back to 247 BC. One of the most moving sights was a sacred fig tree believed to be over 2,250 years old, grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. Pilgrims from around the world come here to pay homage.

Following the local tradition, I offered blue water lilies, Sri Lanka’s national flower, to Buddha and joined others in prayer. The air was thick with hope and reverence. Locals brought flowers, food, clothes, and drinks, circling the stupas in peaceful devotion. I was especially captivated by the Samadhi Buddha Statue from the 5th century AD—its serene expression radiated peace and wisdom.

The area was full of holy banyan trees, their aerial roots entwined like symbols of unity. To me, they represented the world’s diverse faiths—distinct yet interconnected, all striving to become better human beings through Buddha, Allah, or Jesus.

I stayed at Uga Ulagalla, a boutique hotel centered around a 150-year-old mansion, with peacocks roaming freely through its gardens. I was deeply touched by the candle-lighting ceremony that welcomed me with wishes of health and peace.

My villa was spacious, with a lovely verandah where I sat in the evening, listening to a symphony of frogs and soaking in the magic of being on the other side of the world.

Here, I had my first taste of Sri Lankan cuisine—a feast of 27 small dishes served in a rice paddy field. Each bite was a burst of flavor: coconut, cinnamon, pepper, cardamom, lemongrass, curry, ginger, cloves, turmeric, shallots, and more. I savored each one slowly, letting the spices dance on my palate. It was an unforgettable evening. My belly was very happy.

The next day, I explored a local village, opting to hike instead of bike to better connect with nature. For longer stretches, we hopped on a tuk-tuk. What struck me most was the authenticity of the experience. I visited families who proudly demonstrated their crafts: broom-making, traditional Ayurvedic oil production, and brick-making. Their pride and joy in their work were palpable. My favorite stop was a girls’ dance school, where young villagers learn traditional dances after school—a beautiful symbol of community and empowerment. Before leaving, I shared tea with a local woman who spoke little English, yet we had a rich conversation through smiles and gestures. I still think fondly of that moment.

Lunch was prepared by a kind woman named Dilini, in a charming, stilted hut open to the breeze. She even let me help with the cooking. It was, without question, my favorite meal of the trip.

In the afternoon, I visited Sigiriya, my second UNESCO site. Also known as the Lion Rock, it once featured a massive lion’s head at the entrance—only the paws remain today, standing at each side of the staircase to the summit. Here, I learned about King Kashyapa who lived in the 5th century AD, and built this fortress as protection after he usurped the throne from his half-brother, who eventually regained power, and the fortress became a Buddhist monastery. The climb to the top—1,200 steps—was rewarded with panoramic views of lush forest around. At the top, you can find the reminiscent of what it once the palace where the King lived.

A detour led me up spiral stairs into the rock itself, where vibrant frescoes of buxom, flower-bearing maidens still shine with color and grace.  The vivid, radiant paintings struck me deeply—especially the powerful eyes of the women, which conveyed a wealth of emotion.

Though photography was prohibited, the images remain vivid in my memory.

I stayed at Jetwing Vil Uyana, a property designed around different ecosystems. My Paddy Dwelling overlooked rice fields. That evening, I joined a naturalist guide on a night hike in search of the elusive loris, a nocturnal small primate. Though we didn’t spot one, we encountered snakes, insects, and even peacocks sleeping in trees. It was magical.

My third UNESCO site was the Dambulla Cave Temple complex, and I was enchanted, thrilled…mesmerized. Built into the base of a massive rock, the five caves are adorned with murals and statues of Buddha dating back to the first century AD. The artistry even in the ceilings—bright, delicate, and spiritually profound—left me in awe. There are 153 Buddha statues in various poses, alongside gods, goddesses, and kings who contributed to the temple’s legacy.

As I entered the caves, my inner Indiana Jones awakened—I felt the same awe he must have felt when uncovering ancient relics, along with a profound sense of how vital it is to preserve these treasures in their original setting, rather than relocating them to distant museums. These caves are a testament to that commitment, carefully preserved to maintain the integrity of the past.

I spent quiet moments alone, absorbing the energy and reverence that filled the space. I didn’t want to leave.

 

TO BE CONTINUED…..

Bhrigu and Trish have their work cut out for them

I first visited Singapore when I was 17 years old, technically I visited when I was one, but that doesn’t really count as I was apparently being babysat by a flight crew while held in quarantine (long story).

At  17, I remember walking through the main areas and seeing open land, wondering if any kind of urban development would ever take shape. Many of the buildings you see today did not exist back then. Fast forward to the age of 23, I was beginning year one of a three-year Chartered Financial Analyst exam process, at a time when only 7,200 CFA holders existed in the world.  The plan was to finish three years, pass all three exams, and move to either Hong Kong or Singapore.

Well life had a different path for me, and I now have a fun job, getting to still play with numbers, and most importantly, I get to spend time with all of you.

That’s what made this year’s ILTM Asia in Singapore such a smashing success for us. It brought me back to Singapore, allowed me to walk along the famed F1 track on my way from the hotel to the expo center, and gave me a chance to see all the changes.  At our exhibit booth, I was also able to spend time with our advisor partners from Australia, New Zealand and India, having excellent meetings with them on everything, ranging from East Africa to Peru. Our BDM team, Trish in Sydney and Bhrigu in India will have plenty to do in the coming weeks building on these amazing conversations with you all.

But it wasn’t just the show. Can I take a minute and talk about the food stalls? Between the hot pots, Indian food, and the noodles, I was in heaven, and I even perfected the use of the Grab app, which for the record, works way better than the Uber app!

 

Enjoy this week’s video, featuring the sights and sounds of Singapore and ILTM Asia.

I look forward to seeing many of you again in Las Vegas or Cannes for the next ILTM.

The Next Letter

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

 

I– Inspiration – “The only way to do great work is to love what you do.” – Steve Jobs

Without a reason, without motivation, nothing happens. If we don’t know ‘why’ to do something, if we don’t have a reason to do it, then we often don’t do it.  In the big picture of human life, Inspiration is like a powerful engine that pushes us to do great things, overcome tough situations, and discover their purpose. It’s like a guiding light that sparks excitement and determination in us to chase after our dreams without giving up. Throughout history, many amazing people have said that inspiration played a huge role in their success. Whether it came from important people, personal moments, or big events, inspiration has this special ability to change lives. Some may argue that inspiration is momentary and that it alone cannot guarantee success. While it is true that inspiration must be together with dedication and hard work.

 

Inspiration serves as the initial spark, the fuel that propels us forward on our journey towards success.

Inspiration is a guiding force, shaping our values, beliefs, and actions. It gives us the courage to pursue our dreams, to take risks, and to persevere when the going gets tough.

Inspirational stories of success over adversity remind us of the resilience of the human spirit and its capacity to bring about positive change.

Inspirational stories of people overcoming tough times remind us how strong we can be and how much good we can do

In a world where there’s a lot of negativities, feeling Inspired gives us hope. It brings people together, no matter where they’re from or what they believe.

In Summary:  Inspiration is super powerful. It can change lives and make the world better. When we feel inspired, we can conquer tough stuff and aim for big goals. It helps us figure out who we are and become better. By staying inspired, we not only make our own lives better but also make the world nicer and more connected. Let’s see Inspiration as a way to make our future awesome, full of hope and achieving our dreams. When we get Inspiration we inspire others, it can create a chain reaction, making whole communities kinder and stronger. So, let’s welcome the “I” Inspiration spirit and not be afraid to dream, make things, and motivate others.

The letter “I” holds a profound spiritual significance as the ninth letter of the alphabet. It serves as a symbol of the self, individuality, and personal Inspiration.

 

Stay tuned for letter J

I found my new home

Part II of our Argentina dispatch is from our colleague Susie Gavlik, who many of you know and work with. Susie ventured into the northwest of Argentina, a region still largely undiscovered, even by most Argentines. This is Big Five constantly pushing the envelope, discovering new ways to experience a country, and embracing the WTTC Conscious Traveler Guideline set for by my friend Andrea Grisdale.  Connecting travelers with these parts of Argentina is how we truly support community owned small and medium sized businesses, from glamping to stargazing or immersive cultural experiences.

For this dispatch, I share Susie’s thoughts and comments about this journey.

Argentina’s north is a painter’s palette, a kaleidoscope of colors, where in less than three hours, one can travel from lush green Yungas forests to red-hued canyons and cactus-strewn deserts to the high-altitude salt flats shimmering in shades of blue and white. This region is more than a feast for the eyes – it’s a cultural crossroads of indigenous roots, Spanish colonial heritage, and immigrant traditions. My journey began in Tilcara, nestled in the heart of the Quebrada de Humahuaca—a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its dramatic desert landscapes and multicolored mountains. Here the locals still farm their lands using traditional plowing methods and grow vegetables from seed passed down through the generations.

It was then on to Pristine Salinas Grande Camp positioned on the isolated, otherworldly expanse of the Salinas Grandes, the third largest salt flat in the world after Uyuni and the Atacama. Surrounded by endless white horizons and distant mountain peaks, the views at sunrise, sunset, and under the stars are nothing short of breathtaking. During the rainy season, the salt flats transform into a natural mirror, creating surreal reflections. Whether you’re a photographer, a stargazer, or a traveler in search of something extraordinaire, this is a destination that stirs the soul.

From the salar, we drove through Purmamarca, the most picturesque and representative town of Quebrada de Humahuaca, best known for its hill of seven colors. This multicolored mountain is one of the most iconic natural landmarks in Argentina with vivid layers of red, pink, green, yellow, and purple formed over millions of years due to sedimentary rock deposition and mineral content. After winding through the Quebrada de las Conchas, where dramatic red rock formations, canyons, and wind-sculpted cliffs command awe at every turn, we arrived in Cafayate, Argentina’s second most important wine region after Mendoza and most famous for its Torrontés, a young white crispy varietal that thrives in high-altitude conditions and delivers bright, floral flavors with every sip.

The malbec here is simply elegant too! It was then off to Cachi where the traditional whitewashed adobe houses and cobblestone streets transport one back in time. Nearby is Los Cardones National Park, famous for its giant cactus forests, a rich prehistoric heritage of dinosaur tracks and fossils, and a wide array of wildlife including guanaco, red and gray fox, and if luck is on your side, the Andean condor. My time in the north ended in Salta, a city that wears its history with pride. With its colonial architecture, lively pedestrian streets, art galleries, and café-lined plazas, Salta offers the perfect balance of culture, relaxation, and Argentine charm.

Most Americans who travel to Argentina rarely venture into the north. While this region does attract tourists, they’re mostly from neighboring countries or Europe. This is untouched Argentina—far removed from the European charm of Buenos Aires or the tourist-heavy trails of Patagonia. It offers a unique glimpse into a side of the country few ever see, one that appeals to lovers of nature, adventure, and a more laid-back rhythm of life. After all, travel isn’t just about the destination—it’s about the stories you gather along the way. And believe me, I collected more than a few. From the vast salt flats to the fertile wine valleys, from the cactus-covered hills to the charming colonial towns, northern Argentina stole my heart.

I think I found my new home. Can someone talk to Ashish about letting me work remotely from northern Argentina?

(don’t worry I already approved it).

Enjoy the video and feel free to reach out should you want to see the real Argentina.

Laura’s Adventure

When you think of Argentina, what comes to mind? I would be willing to bet the names that pops into your head are the same as mine. Well, at Big Five, we’ve always believed that the first thing that comes to mind about a destination is exactly where we shouldn’t focus on.

 

Enter our latest dispatch:  a two-part journey across Argentina that goes beyond the expected.

Big Five team members Laura and Susie are currently on the ground, each traveling a different path to uncover Argentina’s more untouched corners, from the wetlands to the northwest.

Part I follows Laura’s journey through the wetlands, with her travels eventually leading to Corrientes,  one of the oldest cities in Argentina. Still rich in historic architecture, Corrientes offers a glimpse into a side of the country that few get to see.

Below, I’m sharing her notes directly from the ground, along with a video featuring her photos, a firsthand look at a region that often goes unnoticed but admired.

If you’re intrigued and want to follow in her footsteps, just let us know — we’re here to help you recreate this adventure.

 

Laura’s Field Notes: Wetlands & Corrientes

June 5:  I am now in Corrientes staying at La Alondra Hotel. The plane arrived on time, transfer time between Resistencia and the hotel was 40 minutes. Once you descend from the plane, you have to walk 200 meters to the building to collect luggage.  I took a morning city tour in Corrientes. La Alondra was originally a family house that was later refurbished as a hotel. Most of the rooms are on the ground floor,  including two suites. Two standard rooms and two suites are on the upper floor, with access only by stairs. I was in a suite room.

 

June 6:   I departed for Ituzaingó by road, a 3 hour bus ride from Corrientes. Once in Ituzaingó, the lodge provided a transfer, about one and a half hours. The lodge has only two cabins, each with a double bed plus a single bed. They can add one more bed in case of a family. I then departed from the lodge by vehicle for a half-day visit within the property and surrounding areas. I returned for lunch, then went out again in the afternoon for another half-day visit. I saw about 25 deer, several capybaras, yacarés and many birds typical of the wetlands. In this case the visit is only for guests staying at the lodge so more exclusive.

 

June 7: Please note that the route is paved. This is not a deluxe option, as one doesn’t exist this remote. The place is however very well kept, with warm service provided by local staff. There is no A/C. Food is good, homemade. Today was a cloudy and occasionally rainy day so the morning excursion was done by tractor, which offered a unique experience, later returning to the lodge for lunch.

 

June 8: During our exploration, I came across several spider webs, beautifully adorned with water droplets. These webs are particularly interesting because they’re a favorite feeding spot for the iconic Strange-tailed Tyrant, a vulnerable bird species in the area. Being here at the right time allows for amazing sightings.  After lunch, I explored the organic orchard and then embarked on a scenic walk. The path wound through the marshlands and into a montecito, where one could witness the remarkable recovery of the area after a devastating fire two years ago. The highlight of the walk was spotting two red guacamayos in their natural habitat. Later, a short walk near the lodge rewarded us with a glimpse of howler monkeys.

 

Stay tuned for Part II, as we explore the North West with Susie as we explore the untouched areas of Argentina that are left undisturbed.

The Beginning of Something Powerful

Arriving in Alberta just a week before the G7 summit, I headed to the inaugural Virtuoso Travel Impact Summit with a sense of anticipation. The summit aimed to address a crucial need, focusing on assisting developing nations burdened by overwhelming interest payments on debt. It’s staggering to think that 3.3 billion people in countries allocate more funds to debt interest than to essential areas like healthcare and education. The escalating interest payments in developing nations are surpassing growth in vital public expenditures, underscoring the urgency for action.

The breakout sessions sparked engaging discussions and idea exchanges, with the theme of social responsibility through conscious travel taking center stage. It was truly inspiring to collaborate with some of the brightest minds and thought leaders in this field, where the spirit of cooperation prevailed over competition.

Having a clear vision of what travel advisor partners need to integrate the UN Sustainable Development Goals into their travel planning conversations was pivotal. As the regional member representing Big Five Tours & Expeditions within the  World Travel & Tourism Council, I was reminded that this is not only a privilege, but also a profound responsibility in our collective effort.

A heartfelt congratulations to Matthew Upchurch, Jessica Hall Upchurch, Javier Arredondo, Keriann Ashley-Chase, Dr. Jill Schiefelbein and the entire Virtuoso team for a successful Impact Summit. I look forward to the future and the positive impact we can continue to make together.

The Next Letter

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

H – Humble:  There will always be someone ahead of us in life… BE HUMBLE

Amitabh Bachchan (a Bollywood actor) says:

In the midst of my career’s pinnacle, I found myself aboard a plane, seated next to an elderly gentleman. He wore simple attire—a shirt and pants—a demeanor suggesting middle-class origins, yet exuding an air of quiet confidence and education.

Despite the recognition from fellow passengers, this gentleman seemed calm by my presence. He immersed himself in reading his paper and gazing out of the window, sipping tea with serene composure.

Attempting to engage in conversation, I offered a smile. To my surprise, he reciprocated with warmth. We began conversing, and I broached the topic of cinema and movies, inquiring if he indulged in them.

His response was modest: “Oh, very few. I watched one many years ago.”

I disclosed my profession in the movie industry.

His reaction was unassuming: “Oh, that’s nice. What do you do?”

“I am an actor,” I replied.

He nodded amiably, “That’s wonderful!”  And with that, our interaction seemed to conclude.

Upon landing, I extended my hand in farewell, introducing myself, “It was a pleasure traveling with you. By the way, my name is Amitabh Bachchan!”

He shook my hand with a gentle smile, responding, “Thank you. Nice to have met you. I am J.R.D. Tata.”

In that moment, I realized the profundity of humility. No matter one’s perceived stature, there will always be individuals of greater eminence. Humility, I learned on that day that no matter how big you think you are, there is always someone bigger than you. Be Humble, it costs nothing.

 
B E H A V I O R is always Greater Than Knowledge, Because in Life There Are Many Situations Where Knowledge Fails, But HUMBLE Behavior Can Handle almost E V E R Y T H I N G!

In Summary: There is always love, always faith always HOPE and always BE HUMBLE.

 

Stay tuned for letter I

Annual May Day of Service

Reflecting on the essence of service and community impact, the ethos of Big Five Tours & Expeditions resonates deeply with empowering individuals and communities worldwide. From fostering microentrepreneur projects for women in Andean communities to preserving endangered dialects in the Amazon to supporting projects in our native Kenya, the commitment to uplifting the voiceless and marginalized is unwavering.

In honoring the legacy of Mahendra L Sanghrajka and the enduring values of Big Five, a meaningful initiative was born. On May 16, my father’s birthday, a global day of service was established by my colleagues at the Big Five team, commencing annually from 2025 onwards. This day transcends borders, inspiring acts of kindness and generosity across diverse regions and cultures.

In Stuart, the commemoration took the form of a heartfelt food drive for the homeless, orchestrated by the Treasure Coast Food Bank, complemented by a captivating aerial performance at Florida Aerial Dance. All of this was orchestrated by dedicated team members, Jessica and Lily. Their collective efforts symbolize the essence of who Big Five is as a company and who we are as the Big Five family.

The impact of this unified endeavor resulted in over 3,000 meals spanning 7 countries, from India to Tanzania, to Nicaragua and beyond, in just 2 hours.

We invite every advisor, colleague, and friend to join us May 16, 2026, and every year after either here in Stuart, or in your own town on this newly declared Big Five day of service. Thank you to all who participated this year. If you would like more information on how to get involved, please contact my colleague Jessica Gonzalez at sustainability@bigfive.com

Continuing the Legacy

You may have seen on past blogs, my visit to the Mbulia Conservancy, deep in the heart of Tsavo in southeastern Kenya. The conservancy has a strong historical connection to the journals of Col John Patterson in the late 1800s and the story of the two man-eating lions (one of which is on display at the Field Museum in Chicago as of this writing). The community in Mbulia, all of whom are descendants of those building the railroad tracks, are able to tell the story of their ancestors, as the entire story the British colonel wrote about took place on this land 130 plus years ago.  The camp, Kipalo Hills, built on this land, while not the super deluxe camp we see in slick marketing materials, is one of my personal favorites, and has what I would argue to be the best chef in Tsavo when it comes to blending different cuisines and telling a story through food.

While I could go on about the incredible people and experiences in Mbulia, there’s another reason for this blog. A few weeks ago, a close friend working with the Secluded Africa Wildlife and Community Trust reached out with concerning news. Several primary school projects in the Mbulia Conservancy had suddenly been cut off from the government-funded school feeding program—without any explanation. It turns out, the regular food deliveries schools relied on from municipal authorities had quietly stopped months ago. When schools turned to parents for support, most families were unable to help, already facing serious hardships due to poverty or poor crop yields. As a result, schools were left with no choice but to provide meals only to children whose families could contribute—leaving many young students to go without. When the Trust sought support, the Spirit of Big Five Foundation stepped in. Our foundation, which focuses on grassroots, small-scale grant initiatives around the world, is exactly built for urgent, community-driven projects like this.

While the purpose of this blog is to raise awareness, it is not about asking for donations. Rather, we simply want to highlight the impact that responsible tourism can have—and how the relationships we build through travel can be leveraged to support communities we’ve never even met. For those wondering why this situation happened, I will say that I have my own theories as to why these stopped, centered around forced reactions through austerity due to unfair lending practices in Africa by international organizations. A few months ago, I shared an article by a South African professor that explores this topic in more detail—an analysis I strongly agree with.

You can read it here: Ashish Sanghrajka – Daniel Bradlow Professor .

My father would have turned 77 on May 16, and I tell everyone I am a reflection of him. Happy Birthday Dad.

 

Enjoy the video and thank you for allowing us to stand and help. Your support allowed this.

A Coffee Station and Binoculars

I am a proud gear head, have been most of my life. I love innovation and tech, especially when it is married to the automotive world in a way that redefines the class. Even more so when it’s applied to the barest piece of motorized equipment there is – a stripped-down safari vehicle in the East African Bush. I grew up around safari-ready Defenders and Land Cruisers, built with snorkels and extra rods to control the frame flex on rough roads,  finding ways to save weight on the rear axle, and force feeding the turbo diesel so the power spools up even sooner…all while the expensive parts taken off, out of certainty they would break off. I guess I could be forgiven for chuckling a bit when I see the heavily cladded off roaders in suburbia.

You can imagine my excitement when good friends, Andy and Claudia Stuart owners of Bushtops Camps shared specs and video of their game viewer on steroids. They reimagined the Land Cruiser from a place to see animals, to a place you can live in while going between camps. They took the RV concept and applied it, albeit with a ton of cutting-edge tech, to a safari style Land Cruiser.  Did I mention it has 6-wheel drive? They call it Game Viewer. I say holy $#*&

At the heart of the extraordinary Game Viewer is an expansive game viewing bed, stretching a lavish 4 meters in length and 2 meters in width. Crafted from high-strength steel and 3CR12, with a robust high-tensile steel roof and roll cage, this vehicle exudes a solid, secure feel. The Game Viewer boasts remarkable capability as a 6×6 vehicle. This ensures that the thrill of the wild is not restricted by terrain, making it possible to venture wherever the wilderness beckons, promising an experience of a lifetime. The high tensile strength roll cage enables an open configuration that defies convention. With no unnecessary down tubes hindering the view, ensuring a completely open design with roll-down canopy sides. This marvel is also equipped with a 3-burner cooker, two external Engel Fridge freezers, an internal Beverage Engel fridge, even an ice maker.

There is a 90-liter capacity water tank in 316 stainless steel and gas water heating, high-quality onboard water is available for every convenience, including a pressurized shower facility. The state-of-the-art REDARC 3000-watt 220-volt onboard inverter ensures ample power for laptops, cameras, and convenient lighting for each guest. Passengers are treated to a VIP pod featuring extra-large seats with built-in heaters, covered in the latest ripstop soft material for ultimate comfort in all weather conditions. The side arm console includes wireless charging/USB charge points and a mini fridge to accommodate up to six beverages of choice. Specially designed adjustable camera supports cater to avid photographers, while stowage spaces ensure the safekeeping of books, cameras, and binoculars. For the ultimate dining experience, a fold-out bar with a coffee station, eight foldable Front Runner camp chairs, and a slide-out dining table are at your disposal.

I knew a chance meeting with Andy and Claudia on a plane in 2010 was the start of something amazing. After all these years of collaboration with their spectacular camps, this 6-wheel marvel, designed to be self-sustaining with lighter impact vs a mobile camp just seems like the latest moment to be grateful for that meeting.

 

This is glamping Bushtops style. Enjoy the video of the Game Viewer.

The Next Letter

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

G – Gratitude: Appreciate the beauty in every moment.

Expressing Gratitude is a wonderful practice that can have numerous positive effects on both mental and emotional well-being. Taking the time to acknowledge the things we are thankful for can cultivate a sense of contentment and appreciation for the abundance in our lives, even during challenging times. Whether it’s expressing thanks to loved ones, recognizing the kindness of strangers, or appreciating the beauty of nature, Gratitude can bring joy and perspective to our daily lives.

Let us cultivate Gratitude in every moment, for it has the power to transform our perspectives and bring joy to even the most ordinary of days.

In summary: Showing appreciation, and expressing Gratitude for the kindnesses and blessings received. It embodies the acknowledgment of the good things in one’s life and the recognition of the sources of those blessings, whether they are people, circumstances, or other aspects of existence. Cultivating Gratitude can lead to greater happiness, resilience, and overall well-being.

 

Stay tuned for letter H

The Connected Continent

Yesterday, I was presenting a webinar that many of you attended—I even spotted several familiar names on the attendee list! We were exploring creative ways to combine East and Southern Africa in a single itinerary. While popular routes often include Cape Town and Victoria Falls, this particular session focused more on the structural foundation of building a multi-region African itinerary.

For this exercise, we set aside the usual highlights and used Livingstone as the hub in a hub-and-spoke model. This allowed us to structure an itinerary beginning in Lusaka and ending in Nairobi. Cape Town can easily be added at the start, and post-Nairobi, options like gorilla trekking in Uganda or Rwanda—or even a journey up to Egypt—are all within reach. In Zambia, many travelers don’t venture beyond Victoria Falls, which is a real missed opportunity. Take South Luangwa National Park, for example. It’s renowned for its outstanding walking safaris that offer a deeply immersive experience in the African bush. The park is rich in wildlife, particularly known for its high density of leopards, which makes night drives especially exciting. Along the Luangwa River, it’s common to see large pods of hippos and numerous crocodiles, and bird enthusiasts will appreciate the more than 400 species that call the park home. The region’s impressive biodiversity is also supported by both natural wildlife dispersal and occasional translocation efforts.

Another standout is Lower Zambezi National Park, a personal favorite of mine when visiting Zambia. It’s also known for its strong leopard population, thanks in part to the dense woodlands and towering ebony and fig trees that provide ideal habitat. But what truly sets this park apart is its atmosphere. Unlike some of the more trafficked parks, Lower Zambezi offers a blend of safari experiences, walking safaris and canoeing, in particular, which I consider must-dos. These lower-impact activities reduce the constant presence of vehicles, making wildlife, especially leopards, more relaxed and often more visible during daylight hours.

When you combine these two safari experiences with the vast savannas of the Mara conservancies and the distinctive landscapes of the northern rhino sanctuaries, you have a safari that feels anything but repetitive. It’s a journey that breaks away from the traditional mold—ideal for both the traveler with 14 days and the one with 30. This style of safari invites you to go beyond the vehicle, to engage with the land more deeply, whether you’re in Kenya or Zambia. It’s about rewriting the rules—no longer limited by old ideas of borders or routines. And the same goes for rivers.

While most people are familiar with the iconic Nile or Zambezi, few realize the vital role played by the three rivers of Lewa: the Ngare Ndare, the Ngare Sergoi, and the Marania. These perennial rivers rise from Mount Kenya and the Kenyan Highlands, forming part of the greater Ewaso Nyiro River system. More than just geographical features, they are essential lifelines—for wildlife, yes, but also for the communities that surround the Lewa Conservancy. These waters support daily life, livestock, and small-scale agriculture, reinforcing the deep connection between conservation efforts and community wellbeing. In many ways, these rivers are just as significant to Lewa and its people as the Nile and Zambezi are to the broader continent.

 

Enjoy this week’s video and check out this new safari here

The Next Letter

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

F – Forgiveness: Let go of the past and free your spirit. Forgiveness is not an occasional act; it is a permanent attitude.

 

Forgiveness is a powerful and transformative act that involves letting go of resentment, anger, or the desire for revenge towards someone who has caused harm. It’s a conscious choice to release negative emotions and move towards healing and inner peace. While forgiving others may not always be easy, it can be a liberating experience for our spirit.

 

Strength and Courage: “Kshama Virasya Bhushanam” which translates to “Forgiveness is the ornament of the brave.”  The verse suggests that forgiveness is not a sign of weakness but rather a characteristic of the strong and courageous. It takes strength to let go of resentment and choose forgiveness instead.

The verse refers to forgiveness as an ornament, indicating that it adds beauty and grace to a person’s character. Just as jewelry enhances physical appearance, Forgiveness enhances one’s inner beauty and moral stature.

 

Liberation from Negativity: Forgiveness frees us from the burden of negativity and grudges. By letting go of resentment, we release ourselves from the emotional baggage that can weigh us down, allowing us to experience peace and happiness.

 

Forgiveness is often associated with spiritual growth and enlightenment. It is considered a virtue that aligns with higher principles and values, allowing individuals to cultivate compassion, empathy, and love.

 

In summary: Forgiveness is not about the other person—it’s about us. It’s about reclaiming our peace, our joy, and our humanity in the face of adversity. And though it may be one of the toughest things we’ll ever do, it’s also one of the most therapeutic.

 

Forgiveness is a profound act that can positively impact our mental, emotional, and spiritual well-being. By letting go of the past and embracing forgiveness, we create space for joy, peace, and personal growth in our life.

 

Stay tune for letter G

Neferhotep Speaks

When the late Rainer Jenss asked me to be on the advisory board for the Family Travel Association, little did I know what an honor it would be. It brought to life a blog I wrote some years back, counting how many vacations days we really have to travel with our children from the age of 6 to 18. When I saw how low the number really was, it put into perspective what family travel is all about and how much dedication it takes as a parent to share those little moments. Rainer and every other parent were right, the time goes go by very fast. And family travel is really about tests, isn’t it? No, not a test on your patience, though that can happen at times, rather a test of whether or not a destination was truly family focused, or merely family tolerant.

I first tested Egypt as a family destination when my son Shiv was two years old. Too young I know, however it still didn’t stop my family and I from having a blast. Fast forward to March 2025, my final spring break with Shiv before he heads off to higher education institutions, and it was time to let a 13 year old and an 18 year old test Egypt again, this time during Ramadan.

If I thought taking my son 15 years ago was fun, little did I know how much fun this would be as my wife and I watched Egypt unfold through the eyes of our children. This visit was such an adventure. Sunrise private hot air balloon where we celebrated Shiv’s birthday, seeing the tomb of Neferhotep just opened last year after a 30-year restoration and so much more, topped off with a desert sunset on ATVs in the West Bank. My daughter Jaya had me in stiches. After telling me she was hungry and sleepy, like most 13 year olds would say, she rode the ATV tandem with me while I sent my wife and son off on their own bikes. As I squeezed down the throttle, letting her drive with me, I asked her if she was still tired and still sleepy. The answer, nope!

The best part was seeing how curious my children have become —my son, a history buff thanks to his history class on ancient civilizations, and my daughter, who had been learning about King Tut in her 6th-grade class last year. It wasn’t just what they learned that amazed them; it was the fact that the history they had studied was being challenged and rewritten at every turn. They were comparing what they had read with what they were experiencing and discovering in that moment – and drawing their own conclusions.

 

Now if that’s not learning, what is?

The Next Letter

 

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

 

E – Empathy: Connect with others through understanding and compassion.

 

Empathy is a powerful and essential aspect of human connection. It involves the ability to understand and share the feelings of others, showing compassion and support in various situations.

Active Listening: Empathy begins with actively listening to others. It involves giving our full attention, avoiding interruptions, and truly understanding what the other person is expressing. Pay attention to non-verbal cues such as body language and facial expressions. These can provide valuable insights into someone’s emotions and feelings. Acknowledge the other person’s emotions. Let them know that their feelings are understood and accepted, even if we may not fully agree with their perspective. Try to see things from the other person’s point of view. This helps in understanding their emotions and experiences, fostering a deeper connection. Communicate that we understand the other person’s feelings. Show that we care by offering support. This could be in the form of words of encouragement, practical assistance, or simply being there for someone in times of need.

Avoiding Judgment: Empathy involves suspending judgment and accepting the other person without criticism. It’s about creating a safe space for them to express themselves. In conflicts, empathy can be a powerful tool for resolution. Understanding the underlying emotions and concerns of all parties involved can pave the way for finding common ground.

Empathy involves understanding diverse perspectives and being open to learning from others with different backgrounds and experiences.

 

In summary: In personal and professional settings, Empathy contributes to a positive and supportive environment. It builds bridges between individuals, fostering cooperation, understanding, and a sense of community. Cultivating empathy is a continuous process that can lead to stronger connections and a more compassionate world.

Empathy is seeing with the eyes of another, listening with the ears of another and feeling with the heart of another.

– Alfred Adler.

 

Stay tuned for letter F

The Paradigm Shift

Lately, I’ve been thinking about a Political Science professor I had during my sophomore year at the University of Arizona in Tucson. It was five years after the assassination of India’s Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi, three years before India would enter into a tense missile standoff with Pakistan, and five years before the terrorist attacks on the parliament building in New Delhi. Dr. O’Neill, who not only correctly predicted that Arizona would win the NCAA tournament against Kentucky but also forecasted that India would eventually rise to the top of the global GDP rankings. Most of the class thought he was nuts, but I thought he was onto something. This was in 1997, when India ranked as the 10th largest economy in the world. At the time, with the second-largest population globally, India’s economic standing was more about quantity than quality.

Now, as I write this from the historic Imperial Hotel in New Delhi during the Holi festival, it feels fitting to reflect on how India is on the brink of becoming one of the top three global economies. I recently had the honor of exhibiting at Luxury Tribe, the exclusive invite-only luxury travel conference focused on outbound luxury travel from India. I was also privileged to speak about the rise of socially responsible travel to a room full of luxury advisors, who are clearly witnessing a paradigm shift.

 

In 1997, I was hopeful for India. Today, I am simply proud.

 

Happy Holi.

The Next Letter

 

We started off the year sharing my father’s work, an alphabet he was working on at the time of his passing. At the end of 2024, we found his complete work and are releasing each letter throughout the year. This week, we share the next letter.

 

D – Determination: Stay focused on our goals and aspirations.

Determination is a key factor in achieving success. It involves staying focused on our goals, pushing through challenges, and maintaining a positive mindset even when faced with obstacles. By embodying determination, individuals can overcome difficulties, learn from failures, and ultimately reach their desired outcomes.

The analogy of a rock getting thinner with the repeated fall of water highlights the transformative power of sustained effort. Just as water gradually shapes a rock through persistence, individuals can achieve their objectives by consistently working towards them. This message serves as a reminder that progress may be slow, but with determination, even seemingly impossible tasks can be accomplished over time.

Do not quit soon. Determine our goals and reap the rewards of our hard work. Say no to cutting corners with strong determination. Accomplish our goals in life is challenging.

But determination is “will power” and sense of direction to realize and reach our goals. Determination focusing on life skills throughout our journey and allow us to take on any challenges thrown towards us and move up the ladder and be at the top of our game. Never distort our determination by clinging our thoughts about our ability to reach our goal. It is not just about achieving specific goals but also about developing resilience, adaptability, and the capacity to learn from failures.

Desire, Dedication, Discipline and Determination. When combined, these four qualities create a powerful framework for personal and professional growth.

In summary, Determination is the strength that will enable us to pass the barrier of useless thoughts in order to create positive thoughts and maintaining a positive mindset can significantly impact the journey toward success.

 

“When progress is in short supply bring a surplus of Determination.”

 

Stay Tuned for Letter E

The Three Parts of a Successful Safari

 

The third dispatch from East Africa is as epic as ever. For those of you who work with us in Africa, you know that our team is very deliberate in how we design safaris that stray from the conventional “rinse and repeat” itineraries. Well, this dispatch puts an exclamation point on this.

Let me start with a moment during the flight from Ol Pejeta to the Masai Mara that really stuck with me. Our amazing group was seated just behind a pair of women who were traveling independently, not part of our group. As we helped them figure out where to get off the plane, we learned that they were visiting seven more camps, averaging two nights at each. While some travelers may enjoy this type of itinerary, it’s not for everyone. I found myself wondering what it would be like to visit so many camps with a similar experience at every stop. I shuttered at the thought. A truly successful safari is built on three key components: landscape, culture, and of course wildlife. Prioritizing these elements thoughtfully is the foundation for an exceptional experience.

 

After an amazing stint at Ol Pejeta, we headed to the Masai Mara, specifically the Naboisho Conservancy, which boasts some of the best resident game this time of year. With my 600mm lens (my new toy as an ambitious photographer), I captured epic images of leopards, lions, and so much more, all guided by the expert tracking of Kisemei, our Maasai guide who is part of the community benefiting from the Big Five conservancy model. After three unforgettable nights there, with giraffes, zebras, and lions often just outside our camp, we thought, “What could possibly top this?” The answer? Heading into the heart of the migration in the central and southern Serengeti, where millions of wildebeest have gathered for calving season as they prepare for their northward journey over the next 7 to 9 months.

 

We spent hours on my favorite hidden road in the southern Serengeti, with only the sounds of a million wildebeest, thousands of zebras, impalas, and even witnessing a live birth! The day was topped off with an incredible leopard sighting, though the real highlight was staying at a newly rebuilt, women-run camp in Tanzania, one of the very few in Africa. From the camp manager to our guide Leivian, every aspect of the camp was run by women, and it was nothing short of amazing. The fact that I knew the camp manager from her previous role made this experience even more special.

 

As we mentioned before, of course, we also had a few incredible game drives. The group that arrived in East Africa as one version of themselves left as completely transformed individuals. That’s what a safari is all about. That’s #bigfivin.

 

Enjoy the video and part III of our East Africa dispatch!

More than a Safari

 

This dispatch highlights our journey across the equator and northward, and I must begin by saying that this has been much more than just a safari. This year’s adventure started in Nairobi before heading to Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the home of the last two Northern White Rhinos in existence. I had a specific reason for making this trip this year.

This was the area I frequented as a child, long before the conservancy existed, riding shotgun in my father’s Mitsubishi Sapporo—a car that I believe sparked my passion for automobiles. When the conservancy was established, I remember returning several more times, this time with the first driver guide hired by Big Five, John Kimani. To me and many others, John was a hero, not just because of his infectious laugh, but because he could drive anything with four wheels anywhere it seemed impossible. It all began with taking one of our old microbuses through the muddy trails of Ol Pejeta, back before 4WDs were available, and managing to make it through even with two flat tires that had to be changed. But the achievement that truly earned him a place in my personal hall of fame was when he drove a beat-up Toyota Corolla across a semi-dry lake in central Kenya.

What unfolded during this visit was entirely unplanned. It began with the camp manager at Ol Pejeta Bush Camp. It’s rare to meet someone and, within the first few minutes, realize that you’d crossed paths decades ago and immediately pick up right where you left off. Sushil, the camp manager, has since become a highly regarded photographer, with his work showcased in numerous public forums. As we caught up on family and life, we discovered that our shared passion for authentic safaris and conservation had brought us back together. It felt like reconnecting with an old childhood friend.

One of my favorite experiences during this trip was taking a group of incredible advisors and clients to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary, one of the few truly community-run sanctuaries in Africa, and one of the most successful examples of elephant conservation through the local Samburu communities. It’s a shining example of the conservancy model that Big Five has championed from the start. Now, I know there’s a popular orphanage in Nairobi, and anyone who has traveled with me or knows me understands how I feel about it, especially after the founder, whom I admired as a teenager, passed away a few years ago. When it comes to conservation, though, another revelation occurred that I truly believe was my father’s influence at work. While visiting the holding area of the last two Northern White Rhinos, our guide Zacharia began talking about his career, which spans over 20 years. As I began to connect the dates and events with him, it hit me.  When the center first opened, I was here with my father, visiting with Zacharia’s father who was our guide! How do you even plan something like that?

 

Oh, and of course, we also had some incredible game drives. Stay tuned for the next dispatch and enjoy this one!

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