Part II of our Sri Lanka dispatch takes Tatiana’s journey further south. Her notes take you along to meet the people she met, and seeing first hand how these meetings were so impactful. Last dispatch, I would normally say a destination deserves our attention, however in Sri Lanka’s case, I think it would be more appropriate to say she has earned our attention.
Enjoy the video and part II
My trip to Sri Lanka – Part 2
By Tatiana Johnston
We arrived in Kandy, my fourth UNESCO World Heritage Site. What a colorful and captivating city. My first stop was a local market. I love markets as there’s always so much happening. They’re the vital pulse of any town, a true feast for the eyes with vibrant arrays of fruits and vegetables in every size and shape imaginable, each exuding unique aromas and scents. Fresh produce is everywhere, and the cheerful voices in Sinhalese invite you to sample and buy their goods. If you love mangoes, this will feel like paradise. I ate the most unbelievably delicious mangoes every single day.
My guide, Chami, picked a mango that I wouldn’t normally choose, and simply said, “Trust me.” And wow, he was right! I also discovered jackfruit: incredibly juicy and flavorful, with a taste that’s hard to describe, a mix of pineapple, papaya, and cucumber. When unripe, it’s cooked as a vegetable accompaniment. I tried rambutan, which resemble lychees, and locals are especially proud of the variety of bananas they grow, big, small, red, yellow, and everything in between. This is also a spice-lover’s haven, influenced by Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Indian culinary traditions.
Afterwards, I visited a local home for a traditional meal infused with tropical spices and rich Kandyan flavors. I met Krishanti, the lady of the house, along with her husband, and was especially moved by their beautiful 80-year-old grandmother, who still actively helps in the kitchen. She shared a story about meeting an American student in her youth with whom she practiced her English.
They welcomed me warmly, and we chatted casually. I felt completely at ease. I saw photos of their wedding, met their two daughters, grandchildren, and even the newest addition: a baby born just a few months ago. One grandchild came home from school with a colorful backpack and a beaming smile, filling the space with joy. It was such a treat to be part of this strong multigenerational family, living ordinary lives just like ours, and I felt honored to share a few moments with them.
Krishanthi, and her radiant, honest, and warm Sri Lankan smile allow me to step into the kitchen, and we talked about ingredients and she let me choose the vegetables for our meal, which was prepared using a traditional firewood stove. They showed me an ancient grinding technique called “miris gala” and they cooked everything in clay pots. According to them, a true Sri Lankan curry gets its unique finishing flavor from those pots, along with an abundance of spices and coconut milk. It was such a special, memorable day — I felt like I was visiting my aunt’s home for lunch.
That night I stayed at Taru Villas, a charming boutique hotel that once belonged to a noble family. Each room was uniquely decorated, blending old and new elements, and I was welcomed with a mango popsicle — such a refreshing treat in June’s heat!
Later, I visited the Temple of the Tooth, located in the heart of town, with the Mahaweli River on one side and the bustling city of Kandy on the other. This used to be the starting point for the grand parades honoring Buddha, as Kandy was the royal capital until the 19th century. I learned that the sacred tooth relic of Buddha symbolizes faith and power, and that whoever possessed it had the divine right to rule. The relic arrived in Sri Lanka in the 5th century, it was hidden across different regions, and eventually found its home in Kandy in the 16th century, where it remains until today. This relic is the city’s greatest pride. Stone-carved elephants flank the entrance protectively. The temple spans three floors, and on the lesser-visited second and third levels, I discovered a treasure trove of antiques — clothing, jewelry, tools, manuscripts, and other historic artifacts. I loved admiring the intricacy of each item, their craftsmanship surviving centuries.
After that, I walked to Queen’s Hotel, a once 19th-century property built as the Governor’s residence during the British rule. It later hosted distinguished guests who arrived by train, many on their way to visit the nearby tea plantations. It was there where I met Donald, a local resident with a Scottish name, who gave me a unique glimpse of the city’s timeless streets. We wandered down small alleys, stopping at places that reflect how locals unwind and dine after work. We visited the Royal Bar Hotel’s café, another iconic establishment with a colonial atmosphere. One room was filled with historic photos showcasing how Kandy has evolved over time. We passed Catholic and Protestant churches, mosques, and Buddhist temples, all coexisting peacefully side by side. We explored the everyday rhythm of local life, saw where people shop for dinner, and dined at a lesser-known restaurant where we tried “ulundu vadai”, savory lentil donuts with a surprising mix of spices and “dosai”, a giant crepe served in a pyramid shape, perfect for dipping into a variety of sauces.
Later, we hopped into a tuk tuk and climbed a hill for a breathtaking view of the city at sunset. A young couple was capturing their final photos against the radiant backdrop, and seeing their joy made me smile. I made sure to wish them happiness before we ended the evening with drinks at Helga’s Folly, a wild, whimsical, art-filled anti-hotel where Helga still resides. It was truly eccentric and utterly unforgettable.
That night I stayed at King’s Pavilion Hotel, nestled above the city with panoramic views and surrounded by lush forest. The hospitality was as heartwarming as ever.
The next morning began with a peaceful yoga session offered by the hotel, followed by a train journey to Hatton, the Tea Country. The ride was delightful, offering fresh perspectives of the city and passing through small villages, where children and adults waved at us as we passed. I gazed out at the spectacular tea plantations, one of Sri Lanka’s treasures. Chami met me at the station, and we drove to a lake that I needed to cross to reach my next destination: the Relais & Châteaux Tea Trails. I stayed at Castlereagh, one of five properties, each with its own distinctive charm. With only five rooms, it felt wonderfully intimate. I visited three of the five and adored them all with spacious accommodations, breathtaking views, and personalized service. The chef talks to you daily to discuss your meal preferences, crafting dishes with vegetables and spices grown right on the estate. You can even arrive from Colombo by seaplane. I had the chance to witness a sea landing and after that I think I might try that next time!
To cross the lake, you can take a motorboat or kayak. I chose the boat and arrived in time for a lovely al fresco lunch overlooking the lake and forest. The hotel has several walking trails, and naturally, I couldn’t wait to explore. Each trail passes small villages, serene shrines, and picturesque temples, culminating in the stunning tea plantations, like a tapestry covering the hills, neatly kept with small narrow paths among them used by the collectors to efficiently pluck the leaves, they are the custodians of this area, mostly women, wearing colorful dresses and carrying the baskets on their backs. Despite their busy work, they smiled and waved at me. Such lovely people!
My favorite moment came as I walked back to the hotel and befriended groups of schoolchildren. They were eager to practice their English, and we shared plenty of laughter and smiles. When it started to drizzle, they sweetly offered to share their umbrellas with me….what a beautiful gesture.
The next morning, I immersed myself further into the world of Ceylon tea, observing its production and learning the refined art of tea tasting. The resident Tea Planter led a perfectly paced exploration of tea cultivation’s colonial roots, its intricate manufacturing process, and the creation of varied flavor profiles to suit diverse palates. The experience concluded with a private tasting…. and just like that, I was hooked. Tea became my new favorite drink, and Sri Lankan tea is now my preferred choice.
Leaving was bittersweet, but the journey continued, off to explore one last gem, the coastal paradise of Sri Lanka.
Chami took me along a scenic, off-the-beaten-path route, and I took time to walk parts of it while he patiently waited for me. We arrived at Cape Weligama, a hotel set on 12 acres of land overlooking the Indian Ocean. The views were absolutely stunning. From there, I continued on to Galle — my last UNESCO World Heritage Site of this trip.
Along the way, we stopped to try the famous King coconut. I drank the juice, and Chami asked if I wanted to eat the coconut meat. I hesitated, having tried coconut before and not expecting much — but King coconut was a revelation. Bright orange in the outside, it was nothing like regular coconut: rich, savory, and silky soft meat inside.
We visited a small farm owned by a young couple. The husband had cared for his parents until their passing and inherited the land. He now grows cinnamon. I learned that Sri Lanka is the largest producer of this spice. Several locals told me that while Sri Lanka has many tea competitors, its cinnamon is unmatched in quality. I watched how the bark is harvested and peeled before drying it. Of course, I tried a cup of cinnamon tea, truly the best I’ve had. When I mentioned my love for King coconut, the farmer eagerly climbed one of his palms and brought me a fresh one. His wife was equally delightful. She showed me how to grind coconut with onions, paprika, and lemon, a simple, delicious blend you can add to any meal. She also prepared manioc, which I tasted with the coconut mixture, absolutely unforgettable.
Galle is breathtaking. Its charm lies in the old city nestled within the fort built by the Dutch. The layout and atmosphere immediately reminded me of Cartagena in Colombia, another UNESCO site. Both are encircled by historic forts and adorned with colorful houses, quaint coffee shops, vibrant restaurants, and eclectic boutiques. You can easily explore on foot, and the vibe is wonderfully relaxed. I wandered past the clock tower, Dutch churches, Buddhist temples, mosques, and the iconic white lighthouse.
In the afternoon, I met Shanjei, who helped me discover Galle’s true essence through a walking tour. He doesn’t call himself a guide; meeting him felt more like reconnecting with a storytelling friend. We visited the old Dutch hospital, now a lively restaurant complex with sea views. I heard fascinating tales of Dutch privateers (legalized pirates), Portuguese adventurers, and Muslim gem traders. It was a great afternoon that make me see Galle with different eyes!
I stayed in two different centrally located hotels. One night at the Galle Fort Hotel, with suites encircling the pool. What impressed me most was how thoughtfully antiques were integrated into the décor. The other was Taru Villas, another beautiful colonial boutique hotel. I especially loved the seating area adorned with incredible paintings and relics. One thing worth highlighting is Sri Lanka’s widespread awareness of sustainability and recycling truly admirable.
Later that afternoon, I walked to the fort walls to watch the sunset. I wasn’t alone; many locals were also winding down their day, eating ice cream with their families, children running joyfully around, young couples hand in hand, and passionate photographers chasing the last glimpse of sunlight. We were all there, captivated by the waves, the sun, and this beautiful country of Sri Lanka…
Welcome to 2025 Sri Lanka Dispatch Part I
My fellow Big Five colleague Tatiana Johnston was just in Sri Lanka exploring what Big Five does on ground. Stay tuned for an exciting three part dispatch. As a former guide, Tatiana brings a unique perspective to the sights of what we consider to be an emerging cultural giant. I had the pleasure of meeting his excellency, Mahinda Samarasinghe, Sri Lanka’s ambassador to the US while I was in DC as part of a congressional caucus for the travel industry. My other colleague, Colin Rose, a former guide himself, has talked about Sri Lanka for decades when he used to take guests through there as a guide. It’s been the driving force behind Big Five offering this amazing destination for almost 20 years now. We have seen the victories, and the struggles she has been through, and can’t wait to tell you all about the adventure, mythology, and sustainability in Sri Lanka. Enjoy Tatiana’s thoughts below and stay tuned for parts II and III of this dispatch.
My Journey through Sri Lanka
By Tatiana Johnston
Despite its modest size—roughly equivalent to the state of Indiana—Sri Lanka boasts an impressive eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Eight may not seem like a large number at first, but consider that India—roughly 50 times bigger than Sri Lanka—has 34 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In that context, Sri Lanka’s eight sites are remarkably impressive for such a small country. I was fortunate to visit five of them on this trip, and perhaps you will discover which one (or ones) became my favorite.
I arrived in Colombo early in the morning, greeted by my airport representative with a radiant smile. She did all my immigration and customs formalities while I relaxed in the VIP lounge, already sampling my first Sri Lankan coconut delicacies. Stepping outside, the warm, humid air wrapped around me like a welcome hug—a sensation I cherish, especially coming from a dry climate.
Soon I met my guide, Charmi, whose warm smile and professional demeanor instantly put me at ease. I didn’t know then that he would become more than just a guide—he was my teacher, mentor, brother, and even doctor. We spent countless hours discussing Buddhism, politics, history, geography, flora, fauna, and the vibrant life of Sri Lankan. His knowledge and passion made him a true ambassador of his country. I felt incredibly lucky to have met him.
On the way to the hotel, mango and papaya trees waved at me as we passed. The Wallawwa Hotel, reminiscent of a traditional Dutch building, was surrounded by lush gardens and even had a cricket field—the nation’s favorite sport. It was the perfect place to unwind, recover from the long flight, and ease into the new time zone.
One of the first things I learned was how to greet in Sinhala: “Ayubowan”, meaning “may you live long.” It struck me as profoundly beautiful—Sri Lankans wish each other longevity, regardless of who you are or where you come from. In contrast, many languages offer only a “good morning.” This simple greeting reflects the warmth and generosity of the Sri Lankan spirit.
As a history lover, visiting temples is a true delight. My first stop was Anuradhapura, one of the most sacred cities in Sri Lanka and my first UNESCO site. You could easily spend days here—each temple is a living museum wrapped in spiritual serenity.
I was awestruck by the tallest stupa in the world and the oldest temple in Sri Lanka, dating back to 247 BC. One of the most moving sights was a sacred fig tree believed to be over 2,250 years old, grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. Pilgrims from around the world come here to pay homage.
Following the local tradition, I offered blue water lilies, Sri Lanka’s national flower, to Buddha and joined others in prayer. The air was thick with hope and reverence. Locals brought flowers, food, clothes, and drinks, circling the stupas in peaceful devotion. I was especially captivated by the Samadhi Buddha Statue from the 5th century AD—its serene expression radiated peace and wisdom.
The area was full of holy banyan trees, their aerial roots entwined like symbols of unity. To me, they represented the world’s diverse faiths—distinct yet interconnected, all striving to become better human beings through Buddha, Allah, or Jesus.
I stayed at Uga Ulagalla, a boutique hotel centered around a 150-year-old mansion, with peacocks roaming freely through its gardens. I was deeply touched by the candle-lighting ceremony that welcomed me with wishes of health and peace.
My villa was spacious, with a lovely verandah where I sat in the evening, listening to a symphony of frogs and soaking in the magic of being on the other side of the world.
Here, I had my first taste of Sri Lankan cuisine—a feast of 27 small dishes served in a rice paddy field. Each bite was a burst of flavor: coconut, cinnamon, pepper, cardamom, lemongrass, curry, ginger, cloves, turmeric, shallots, and more. I savored each one slowly, letting the spices dance on my palate. It was an unforgettable evening. My belly was very happy.
The next day, I explored a local village, opting to hike instead of bike to better connect with nature. For longer stretches, we hopped on a tuk-tuk. What struck me most was the authenticity of the experience. I visited families who proudly demonstrated their crafts: broom-making, traditional Ayurvedic oil production, and brick-making. Their pride and joy in their work were palpable. My favorite stop was a girls’ dance school, where young villagers learn traditional dances after school—a beautiful symbol of community and empowerment. Before leaving, I shared tea with a local woman who spoke little English, yet we had a rich conversation through smiles and gestures. I still think fondly of that moment.
Lunch was prepared by a kind woman named Dilini, in a charming, stilted hut open to the breeze. She even let me help with the cooking. It was, without question, my favorite meal of the trip.
In the afternoon, I visited Sigiriya, my second UNESCO site. Also known as the Lion Rock, it once featured a massive lion’s head at the entrance—only the paws remain today, standing at each side of the staircase to the summit. Here, I learned about King Kashyapa who lived in the 5th century AD, and built this fortress as protection after he usurped the throne from his half-brother, who eventually regained power, and the fortress became a Buddhist monastery. The climb to the top—1,200 steps—was rewarded with panoramic views of lush forest around. At the top, you can find the reminiscent of what it once the palace where the King lived.
A detour led me up spiral stairs into the rock itself, where vibrant frescoes of buxom, flower-bearing maidens still shine with color and grace. The vivid, radiant paintings struck me deeply—especially the powerful eyes of the women, which conveyed a wealth of emotion.
Though photography was prohibited, the images remain vivid in my memory.
I stayed at Jetwing Vil Uyana, a property designed around different ecosystems. My Paddy Dwelling overlooked rice fields. That evening, I joined a naturalist guide on a night hike in search of the elusive loris, a nocturnal small primate. Though we didn’t spot one, we encountered snakes, insects, and even peacocks sleeping in trees. It was magical.
My third UNESCO site was the Dambulla Cave Temple complex, and I was enchanted, thrilled…mesmerized. Built into the base of a massive rock, the five caves are adorned with murals and statues of Buddha dating back to the first century AD. The artistry even in the ceilings—bright, delicate, and spiritually profound—left me in awe. There are 153 Buddha statues in various poses, alongside gods, goddesses, and kings who contributed to the temple’s legacy.
As I entered the caves, my inner Indiana Jones awakened—I felt the same awe he must have felt when uncovering ancient relics, along with a profound sense of how vital it is to preserve these treasures in their original setting, rather than relocating them to distant museums. These caves are a testament to that commitment, carefully preserved to maintain the integrity of the past.
I spent quiet moments alone, absorbing the energy and reverence that filled the space. I didn’t want to leave.
TO BE CONTINUED…..
I first visited Singapore when I was 17 years old, technically I visited when I was one, but that doesn’t really count as I was apparently being babysat by a flight crew while held in quarantine (long story).
At 17, I remember walking through the main areas and seeing open land, wondering if any kind of urban development would ever take shape. Many of the buildings you see today did not exist back then. Fast forward to the age of 23, I was beginning year one of a three-year Chartered Financial Analyst exam process, at a time when only 7,200 CFA holders existed in the world. The plan was to finish three years, pass all three exams, and move to either Hong Kong or Singapore.
Well life had a different path for me, and I now have a fun job, getting to still play with numbers, and most importantly, I get to spend time with all of you.
That’s what made this year’s ILTM Asia in Singapore such a smashing success for us. It brought me back to Singapore, allowed me to walk along the famed F1 track on my way from the hotel to the expo center, and gave me a chance to see all the changes. At our exhibit booth, I was also able to spend time with our advisor partners from Australia, New Zealand and India, having excellent meetings with them on everything, ranging from East Africa to Peru. Our BDM team, Trish in Sydney and Bhrigu in India will have plenty to do in the coming weeks building on these amazing conversations with you all.
But it wasn’t just the show. Can I take a minute and talk about the food stalls? Between the hot pots, Indian food, and the noodles, I was in heaven, and I even perfected the use of the Grab app, which for the record, works way better than the Uber app!
Enjoy this week’s video, featuring the sights and sounds of Singapore and ILTM Asia.
I look forward to seeing many of you again in Las Vegas or Cannes for the next ILTM.
