Big Five – FeedWelcome to 2025 Sri Lanka Dispatch Part I
My fellow Big Five colleague Tatiana Johnston was just in Sri Lanka exploring what Big Five does on ground. Stay tuned for an exciting three part dispatch. As a former guide, Tatiana brings a unique perspective to the sights of what we consider to be an emerging cultural giant. I had the pleasure of meeting his excellency, Mahinda Samarasinghe, Sri Lanka’s ambassador to the US while I was in DC as part of a congressional caucus for the travel industry. My other colleague, Colin Rose, a former guide himself, has talked about Sri Lanka for decades when he used to take guests through there as a guide. It’s been the driving force behind Big Five offering this amazing destination for almost 20 years now. We have seen the victories, and the struggles she has been through, and can’t wait to tell you all about the adventure, mythology, and sustainability in Sri Lanka. Enjoy Tatiana’s thoughts below and stay tuned for parts II and III of this dispatch.
My Journey through Sri Lanka
By Tatiana Johnston
Despite its modest size—roughly equivalent to the state of Indiana—Sri Lanka boasts an impressive eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Eight may not seem like a large number at first, but consider that India—roughly 50 times bigger than Sri Lanka—has 34 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In that context, Sri Lanka’s eight sites are remarkably impressive for such a small country. I was fortunate to visit five of them on this trip, and perhaps you will discover which one (or ones) became my favorite.
I arrived in Colombo early in the morning, greeted by my airport representative with a radiant smile. She did all my immigration and customs formalities while I relaxed in the VIP lounge, already sampling my first Sri Lankan coconut delicacies. Stepping outside, the warm, humid air wrapped around me like a welcome hug—a sensation I cherish, especially coming from a dry climate.
Soon I met my guide, Charmi, whose warm smile and professional demeanor instantly put me at ease. I didn’t know then that he would become more than just a guide—he was my teacher, mentor, brother, and even doctor. We spent countless hours discussing Buddhism, politics, history, geography, flora, fauna, and the vibrant life of Sri Lankan. His knowledge and passion made him a true ambassador of his country. I felt incredibly lucky to have met him.
On the way to the hotel, mango and papaya trees waved at me as we passed. The Wallawwa Hotel, reminiscent of a traditional Dutch building, was surrounded by lush gardens and even had a cricket field—the nation’s favorite sport. It was the perfect place to unwind, recover from the long flight, and ease into the new time zone.
One of the first things I learned was how to greet in Sinhala: “Ayubowan”, meaning “may you live long.” It struck me as profoundly beautiful—Sri Lankans wish each other longevity, regardless of who you are or where you come from. In contrast, many languages offer only a “good morning.” This simple greeting reflects the warmth and generosity of the Sri Lankan spirit.
As a history lover, visiting temples is a true delight. My first stop was Anuradhapura, one of the most sacred cities in Sri Lanka and my first UNESCO site. You could easily spend days here—each temple is a living museum wrapped in spiritual serenity.
I was awestruck by the tallest stupa in the world and the oldest temple in Sri Lanka, dating back to 247 BC. One of the most moving sights was a sacred fig tree believed to be over 2,250 years old, grown from a cutting of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. Pilgrims from around the world come here to pay homage.
Following the local tradition, I offered blue water lilies, Sri Lanka’s national flower, to Buddha and joined others in prayer. The air was thick with hope and reverence. Locals brought flowers, food, clothes, and drinks, circling the stupas in peaceful devotion. I was especially captivated by the Samadhi Buddha Statue from the 5th century AD—its serene expression radiated peace and wisdom.
The area was full of holy banyan trees, their aerial roots entwined like symbols of unity. To me, they represented the world’s diverse faiths—distinct yet interconnected, all striving to become better human beings through Buddha, Allah, or Jesus.
I stayed at Uga Ulagalla, a boutique hotel centered around a 150-year-old mansion, with peacocks roaming freely through its gardens. I was deeply touched by the candle-lighting ceremony that welcomed me with wishes of health and peace.
My villa was spacious, with a lovely verandah where I sat in the evening, listening to a symphony of frogs and soaking in the magic of being on the other side of the world.
Here, I had my first taste of Sri Lankan cuisine—a feast of 27 small dishes served in a rice paddy field. Each bite was a burst of flavor: coconut, cinnamon, pepper, cardamom, lemongrass, curry, ginger, cloves, turmeric, shallots, and more. I savored each one slowly, letting the spices dance on my palate. It was an unforgettable evening. My belly was very happy.
The next day, I explored a local village, opting to hike instead of bike to better connect with nature. For longer stretches, we hopped on a tuk-tuk. What struck me most was the authenticity of the experience. I visited families who proudly demonstrated their crafts: broom-making, traditional Ayurvedic oil production, and brick-making. Their pride and joy in their work were palpable. My favorite stop was a girls’ dance school, where young villagers learn traditional dances after school—a beautiful symbol of community and empowerment. Before leaving, I shared tea with a local woman who spoke little English, yet we had a rich conversation through smiles and gestures. I still think fondly of that moment.
Lunch was prepared by a kind woman named Dilini, in a charming, stilted hut open to the breeze. She even let me help with the cooking. It was, without question, my favorite meal of the trip.
In the afternoon, I visited Sigiriya, my second UNESCO site. Also known as the Lion Rock, it once featured a massive lion’s head at the entrance—only the paws remain today, standing at each side of the staircase to the summit. Here, I learned about King Kashyapa who lived in the 5th century AD, and built this fortress as protection after he usurped the throne from his half-brother, who eventually regained power, and the fortress became a Buddhist monastery. The climb to the top—1,200 steps—was rewarded with panoramic views of lush forest around. At the top, you can find the reminiscent of what it once the palace where the King lived.
A detour led me up spiral stairs into the rock itself, where vibrant frescoes of buxom, flower-bearing maidens still shine with color and grace. The vivid, radiant paintings struck me deeply—especially the powerful eyes of the women, which conveyed a wealth of emotion.
Though photography was prohibited, the images remain vivid in my memory.
I stayed at Jetwing Vil Uyana, a property designed around different ecosystems. My Paddy Dwelling overlooked rice fields. That evening, I joined a naturalist guide on a night hike in search of the elusive loris, a nocturnal small primate. Though we didn’t spot one, we encountered snakes, insects, and even peacocks sleeping in trees. It was magical.
My third UNESCO site was the Dambulla Cave Temple complex, and I was enchanted, thrilled…mesmerized. Built into the base of a massive rock, the five caves are adorned with murals and statues of Buddha dating back to the first century AD. The artistry even in the ceilings—bright, delicate, and spiritually profound—left me in awe. There are 153 Buddha statues in various poses, alongside gods, goddesses, and kings who contributed to the temple’s legacy.
As I entered the caves, my inner Indiana Jones awakened—I felt the same awe he must have felt when uncovering ancient relics, along with a profound sense of how vital it is to preserve these treasures in their original setting, rather than relocating them to distant museums. These caves are a testament to that commitment, carefully preserved to maintain the integrity of the past.
I spent quiet moments alone, absorbing the energy and reverence that filled the space. I didn’t want to leave.
TO BE CONTINUED…..
