Jordan Egypt Dispatch Part II – From Netflix to Moses

From the Foot of The Mountain

 

In my last letter, we showcased part one of my colleague Tatiana’s dispatch from Jordan, where she started her adventure with her son, a recent graduate. Part two of Tatiana’s dispatch finds her and Carstenz in Egypt. Follow her journey as she ventures from a private tomb in Saqqara to hiking with the Bedouins. Our dispatch series offers a front-row seat into the narrative that makes up a Big Five journey.

Egypt is a destination that offers all the ingredients for a wonderful experience: great hotels, knowledgeable guides, and awe-inspiring sites.

 

My son recently graduated from high school, and visiting Egypt was one of his dreams. We meticulously prepared for this trip a year in advance, even encouraging him to learn Arabic through Duolingo. Our research included reading about Egypt, such as Agatha Christie’s book “Murder on the Nile,” and watching several documentaries related to the country, including “The Secret of Saqqara.” I aimed to build excitement for our journey.

 

Beyond the iconic pyramids and the temples of Luxor, Karnak Abu Simbel, etc, we had two extraordinary experiences that went beyond the usual tourist visits. Let me share them with you. Saqqara is an incredibly rich archaeological site, and it continually reveals new discoveries each year. One such discovery is the Whatye Tomb, prominently featured in a Netflix documentary (mentioned above). I recommend watching it, as it beautifully explains the story of Isis, Osiris, Hathor, and Horus—a foundational understanding when exploring Luxor.

 

To my son’s surprise, we visited the Whatye Tomb. He had no idea we were going there, but his enthusiasm from the documentary led him to want a photo of the site from outside. Upon arrival, he immediately recognized Egyptologist Mohammad Yousef, who had been featured in the same documentary. Meeting him in person was already a highlight for him. And then, the magic unfolded. Mohammad Yousef shared artifacts found within the tomb, allowing us to hold and closely examine them—an extraordinary privilege you don’t get very often. Among the treasures were mummified cats, a preserved hand, and even a mummified foot. But the real surprise came when we stepped inside the tomb itself.

 

Normally closed to the public, the tomb is exclusively opened for Big Five’s clients. My son recognized the hieroglyphics he’d seen in the documentary. We stood where Egyptologists were deciphering the inscriptions, and we couldn’t resist taking many photos. My son explored every nook and every detail, soaking in the ancient history. Leaving was the hardest part—he wanted to stay in that moment forever.

 

The second remarkable experience on this journey was ascending Mt. Sinai. To reach it, we flew to Sharm El Sheikh, a coastal city known for its excellent snorkeling and diving spots—a perfect place to unwind before the climb. From Sharm, it’s about a 3-hour drive to the base of Mt. Sinai.

 

Our first stop was St. Catherine’s Monastery, nestled at the foot of the mountain. Inside the monastery, we learned about Moses and the burning bush (where God appeared to Moses) and explored relics related to St. Catherine, a defender of Christianity whose relics are in the Monastery. We also visited an interesting art collection and the “Well of Moses,” which added to the historical richness.

 

As midnight approached, we began our ascent. The trail, illuminated by our headlamps, led us upward. Along the way, Bedouins offered camel rides, but we chose to climb on foot. The weather was ideal—cool and breezy.

The initial part of the climb is deceptively flat, gradually revealing its steepness but manageable. The trail is well-maintained, and en route, you can find Bedouin tents where you can rest, sip hot tea or coffee, and chat with them.

 

The final stretch involves 750 steps—a test of endurance. But the anticipation of witnessing the sunrise from the summit kept us going. At the top, the wind was brisk, but the panoramic views were mesmerizing. We lingered, watching the sun emerge against the mountainous backdrop with orange and pink colors. The peacefulness of this moment was amplified by the stillness of the mountains.

 

This journey felt like an immersive history lesson—one that transcended Egypt’s ancient past.