Peru Dispatch 2024 Part II – The Flamingo and The Whale

The North Star

Each year when we share our Peru dispatches, the sequel always focuses on the more remote parts of Peru. However, there is a certain order to this, and when done right, it tells the perfect story. After all, these dispatches are not as much trip reports as much as they are well-articulated stories. They are told from areas of a country few have explored or are bypassed when driving from one point to another. The thing about storytelling is it is an art, and it doesn’t have to go in order, and this dispatch is no different. We start with the last and end with the first.

Red mangroves release 10 times as much oxygen as trees, yet they are the most overlooked. We get so caught up in planting trees, which is a great thing, that we forget about mangroves, not planting but replanting. You see whenever the tide changes or there is an imbalance in water levels or conditions, mangrove seedlings, also known as propagules, usually get washed away as their roots are not yet mature enough to withstand the current. Propagules usually wash up along the water’s edge, in what is usually brackish water. Replanting these seedlings is a huge first step towards carbon neutrality.

Now in the very north of Peru, lies an unknown nature reserve, managed by the local communities, right near the border with Ecuador, Manglares de Tumbes Mangroves. The location of this untouched nature, and the involvement of the local community, represents a best practice example. This is only topped by the population of flamingo species bright pink in nature, that are unique only to this region. Anyone wanting to see the Peru most locals don’t know and have access to the mouth of the Pacific Ocean while looking at the Ecuadorian border crossing should take the three-hour drive from Mancora to Tumbes.

Before the visit to the mangroves was Mancora itself. While at Machu Picchu, the second day of our adventure, I told everyone that Mancora would feel like a different country and boy was that an understatement. From the coastal communities to the culinary experience, it was clear that this was no longer about the traditional history. This was living history, told through food, and passed down through the generations. The highlight of a stay here, aside from the amazing accommodations, were the fishing communities, their methods of raft building, and, of course, the humpback whales. If you time your visit, whale sharks make an appearance too.

As you watch this week’s video and see the whale elevating out of the water, or the dolphin skimming the surface, just imagine for a second, what it was like in the early days when Mancora was established in 1908.  The tourists you see are more local than foreign, yet their smiles greet you, eager for you to love Mancora, and tell your friends about it.

This is Peru, the real Peru. Enjoy the video.