2026 Southern Africa Dispatch Part III – Diary of a Former Guide in Zimbabwe

The Elephant Express Train

My colleague Colin has been busy exploring South and Southern Africa on an inspection adventure. As a former safari guide with decades of experience in the field, Colin takes us beyond marketing and evaluates a property through the lens of guest experience, guiding quality, and sense of place. Below is his Third Dispatch, from the Ngamo Concession, Zambezi National Park, and Victoria Falls, in Zimbabwe.

“From the Winelands, I made my way north to Victoria Falls, a destination that many travelers visit for the famous waterfall but often leave talking about so much more. What struck me during this visit was how diverse the experiences can be. Within a relatively small area, you can combine wildlife, river adventures, luxury lodges, and one of the natural wonders of the world.

The property that stood out most to me was Matetsi Victoria Falls.

I arrived late in the evening and departed early the next morning, so I did not have much opportunity to photograph the rooms. What I did experience, however, left a lasting impression. Dinner was served in a beautiful bush setting beneath the stars, creating the kind of atmosphere that reminds you why a safari is about much more than just wildlife sightings.

Matetsi’s location is one of its greatest strengths. Set within a private reserve along the Zambezi River, the property offers the feeling of being deep in the wilderness while still allowing guests easy access to Victoria Falls. Being closer to Botswana also puts it in an area known for productive wildlife viewing. The guides were excellent, the safari vehicles first class, and the service throughout was seamless. For travelers who want the best of both worlds, meaningful game viewing alongside a visit to the Falls, Matetsi delivers an experience that is difficult to beat.

Another property I visited was The Elephant Camp.

One of the highlights here is the opportunity for guests to enjoy the elephant interaction experiences for which the camp has become well known. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and the elevated setting provides wonderful views across the surrounding landscape.

What I liked most was how easy it is to combine all the activities around Victoria Falls from here. Guests can spend the morning exploring the Falls, enjoy a sunset cruise on the Zambezi, and return to a peaceful lodge environment in the evening. For travelers looking to experience everything the destination has to offer, The Elephant Camp provides an excellent base.

A little further along the Zambezi is Old Drift Lodge.

This is one of those properties that captures the spirit of the river beautifully. Positioned within the Zambezi National Park, guests wake up surrounded by nature while remaining close enough to enjoy all the classic Victoria Falls excursions.

The rooms are thoughtfully designed and blend naturally into the environment, while the location allows visitors to combine safari activities with time at the Falls. As someone who has spent a lifetime traveling to wildlife destinations, I particularly enjoy places that allow guests to experience multiple sides of a destination without having to compromise.

Perhaps the property that surprised me most was Mpala Jena.

Getting there is part of the adventure. The journey begins with a speedboat transfer up the Zambezi River, weaving through channels and navigating rapids. By the time you arrive, there is already a sense that you have left the bustle of town behind and entered a much more remote corner of the river.

The camp itself is elegant, intimate, and beautifully positioned along the banks of the Zambezi. Although I only stopped for lunch rather than spending the night, the warmth of the staff made an immediate impression. Everyone I met was welcoming, knowledgeable, and genuinely passionate about the property.

The food was excellent, the atmosphere relaxed, and the river setting creates a wonderful sense of tranquility. For families and groups traveling together, the private villas offer an outstanding option and make the property particularly appealing for multi-generational travel.

Back in Victoria Falls town, I also had the opportunity to visit Palm River Hotel.

This property occupies a unique niche, allowing guests to stay right on the banks of the Zambezi while remaining close to the attractions, restaurants, and energy of Victoria Falls itself.

The hotel is exceptionally well maintained and offers a relaxed riverside atmosphere. During my visit, I spent some time getting to know the general manager and was impressed by his hands-on involvement and enthusiasm for the guest experience. It is always encouraging to see that level of personal commitment, as it often sets the tone for the entire property.

One of the standout experiences here is the evening barbecue along the riverbank. As the sun begins to set over the Zambezi and the sounds of the river take over, it creates one of those simple but memorable African moments that guests tend to remember long after their journey has ended.

From Victoria Falls, I continued toward Hwange National Park and the Ngamo Concession, an area renowned for its impressive wildlife and conservation efforts.

Hwange remains one of southern Africa’s great safari destinations. The landscapes feel vast and untamed, and throughout my visit there was always the sense that something could appear around the next bend in the road. Large elephant herds, productive waterholes, and excellent guiding combine to create the kind of safari experience that keeps drawing visitors back year after year.

I spent time learning more about the Bomani and Camelthorn camps, both operated by Imvelo Safari Lodges in the wildlife-rich Ngamo area. What makes these camps particularly interesting is that they offer far more than traditional game drives.

One of the signature experiences is the famous Elephant Express, a uniquely Zimbabwean adventure that transports guests through the heart of the concession by rail. Guests can also take part in rhino tracking experiences and visit community projects supported by Imvelo’s long-standing conservation initiatives. These experiences provide a deeper understanding of both the wildlife and the people who share the landscape.

As someone who spent many years guiding in India, I have always believed that some of the most memorable wildlife experiences happen when guests gain a deeper appreciation for the story behind a destination. Wildlife sightings are always exciting, but understanding the conservation work, meeting the people involved, and seeing firsthand how tourism supports local communities often leaves the greatest impression.

As I continued through Hwange, I found myself reflecting on just how fortunate I’ve been to spend much of my career exploring some of the world’s great wildlife destinations. While my guiding years were spent in India, they taught me lessons that have stayed with me wherever I travel: slow down, pay attention to the details, and remember that the best wildlife experiences are rarely just about the wildlife.

Whether you’re tracking a tiger through the forests of Ranthambore or watching elephants gather around a waterhole in Hwange, the anticipation is often as rewarding as the sighting itself. It is the sounds of the bush, the changing light, the stories shared by local guides, and the sense of connection to a landscape that create lasting memories.

Returning to southern Africa always reminds me why the region remains one of the world’s premier safari destinations. I’ve visited many times over the years, yet every journey seems to reveal something new. Sometimes it is a remarkable wildlife encounter. Other times it is meeting a passionate guide, hearing about a successful conservation initiative, or simply discovering a fresh perspective on a place I thought I knew well.

What stood out during this visit was how naturally Victoria Falls and Hwange complement one another. Victoria Falls delivers one of the continent’s most spectacular natural wonders, while Hwange offers the kind of authentic safari experience that has drawn travelers to Africa for generations. Together they showcase the incredible diversity of the region, from the power of the Zambezi River to the vast wilderness and wildlife of Zimbabwe’s largest national park.

The camps and lodges I visited each offered their own perspective on these landscapes, but the common thread was the quality of the people behind them. Great guides, attentive staff, dedicated conservationists, and passionate managers all contribute to experiences that go far beyond simply providing a place to stay.

After decades of travel, I’ve come to appreciate that the destinations I remember most are not necessarily those with the biggest wildlife sightings or the most luxurious accommodations. They are the places that leave you with a sense of connection: to the landscape, to the wildlife, and to the people who call these remarkable places home. This journey through Victoria Falls and Hwange was a wonderful reminder of exactly that.”