2025 Sri Lanka Dispatch Part II – Meeting Krishanti

I Love Kandy

Part II of our Sri Lanka dispatch takes Tatiana’s journey further south. Her notes take you along to meet the people she met, and seeing first hand how these meetings were so impactful. Last dispatch, I would normally say a destination deserves our attention, however in Sri Lanka’s case, I think it would be more appropriate to say she has earned our attention.

Enjoy the video and part II

My trip to Sri Lanka – Part 2
By Tatiana Johnston

We arrived in Kandy, my fourth UNESCO World Heritage Site. What a colorful and captivating city. My first stop was a local market. I love markets as there’s always so much happening. They’re the vital pulse of any town, a true feast for the eyes with vibrant arrays of fruits and vegetables in every size and shape imaginable, each exuding unique aromas and scents. Fresh produce is everywhere, and the cheerful voices in Sinhalese invite you to sample and buy their goods. If you love mangoes, this will feel like paradise. I ate the most unbelievably delicious mangoes every single day.

My guide, Chami, picked a mango that I wouldn’t normally choose, and simply said, “Trust me.” And wow, he was right! I also discovered jackfruit: incredibly juicy and flavorful, with a taste that’s hard to describe, a mix of pineapple, papaya, and cucumber. When unripe, it’s cooked as a vegetable accompaniment. I tried rambutan, which resemble lychees, and locals are especially proud of the variety of bananas they grow, big, small, red, yellow, and everything in between. This is also a spice-lover’s haven, influenced by Portuguese, Dutch, British, and Indian culinary traditions.

Afterwards, I visited a local home for a traditional meal infused with tropical spices and rich Kandyan flavors. I met Krishanti, the lady of the house, along with her husband, and was especially moved by their beautiful 80-year-old grandmother, who still actively helps in the kitchen. She shared a story about meeting an American student in her youth with whom she practiced her English.

They welcomed me warmly, and we chatted casually. I felt completely at ease. I saw photos of their wedding, met their two daughters, grandchildren, and even the newest addition: a baby born just a few months ago. One grandchild came home from school with a colorful backpack and a beaming smile, filling the space with joy. It was such a treat to be part of this strong multigenerational family, living ordinary lives just like ours, and I felt honored to share a few moments with them.

Krishanthi, and her radiant, honest, and warm Sri Lankan smile allow me to step into the kitchen, and we talked about ingredients and she let me choose the vegetables for our meal, which was prepared using a traditional firewood stove. They showed me an ancient grinding technique called “miris gala” and they cooked everything in clay pots. According to them, a true Sri Lankan curry gets its unique finishing flavor from those pots, along with an abundance of spices and coconut milk. It was such a special, memorable day — I felt like I was visiting my aunt’s home for lunch.

That night I stayed at Taru Villas, a charming boutique hotel that once belonged to a noble family. Each room was uniquely decorated, blending old and new elements, and I was welcomed with a mango popsicle — such a refreshing treat in June’s heat!

Later, I visited the Temple of the Tooth, located in the heart of town, with the Mahaweli River on one side and the bustling city of Kandy on the other. This used to be the starting point for the grand parades honoring Buddha, as Kandy was the royal capital until the 19th century. I learned that the sacred tooth relic of Buddha symbolizes faith and power, and that whoever possessed it had the divine right to rule. The relic arrived in Sri Lanka in the 5th century, it was hidden across different regions, and eventually found its home in Kandy in the 16th century, where it remains until today. This relic is the city’s greatest pride. Stone-carved elephants flank the entrance protectively. The temple spans three floors, and on the lesser-visited second and third levels, I discovered a treasure trove of antiques — clothing, jewelry, tools, manuscripts, and other historic artifacts. I loved admiring the intricacy of each item, their craftsmanship surviving centuries.

After that, I walked to Queen’s Hotel, a once 19th-century property built as the Governor’s residence during the British rule. It later hosted distinguished guests who arrived by train, many on their way to visit the nearby tea plantations. It was there where I met Donald, a local resident with a Scottish name, who gave me a unique glimpse of the city’s timeless streets. We wandered down small alleys, stopping at places that reflect how locals unwind and dine after work. We visited the Royal Bar Hotel’s café, another iconic establishment with a colonial atmosphere. One room was filled with historic photos showcasing how Kandy has evolved over time. We passed Catholic and Protestant churches, mosques, and Buddhist temples, all coexisting peacefully side by side. We explored the everyday rhythm of local life, saw where people shop for dinner, and dined at a lesser-known restaurant where we tried “ulundu vadai”, savory lentil donuts with a surprising mix of spices and “dosai”, a giant crepe served in a pyramid shape, perfect for dipping into a variety of sauces.

Later, we hopped into a tuk tuk and climbed a hill for a breathtaking view of the city at sunset. A young couple was capturing their final photos against the radiant backdrop, and seeing their joy made me smile. I made sure to wish them happiness before we ended the evening with drinks at Helga’s Folly, a wild, whimsical, art-filled anti-hotel where Helga still resides. It was truly eccentric and utterly unforgettable.

That night I stayed at King’s Pavilion Hotel, nestled above the city with panoramic views and surrounded by lush forest. The hospitality was as heartwarming as ever.

The next morning began with a peaceful yoga session offered by the hotel, followed by a train journey to Hatton, the Tea Country. The ride was delightful, offering fresh perspectives of the city and passing through small villages, where children and adults waved at us as we passed. I gazed out at the spectacular tea plantations, one of Sri Lanka’s treasures. Chami met me at the station, and we drove to a lake that I needed to cross to reach my next destination: the Relais & Châteaux Tea Trails. I stayed at Castlereagh, one of five properties, each with its own distinctive charm. With only five rooms, it felt wonderfully intimate. I visited three of the five and adored them all with spacious accommodations, breathtaking views, and personalized service. The chef talks to you daily to discuss your meal preferences, crafting dishes with vegetables and spices grown right on the estate. You can even arrive from Colombo by seaplane. I had the chance to witness a sea landing and after that I think I might try that next time!

To cross the lake, you can take a motorboat or kayak.  I chose the boat and arrived in time for a lovely al fresco lunch overlooking the lake and forest. The hotel has several walking trails, and naturally, I couldn’t wait to explore. Each trail passes small villages, serene shrines, and picturesque temples, culminating in the stunning tea plantations, like a tapestry covering the hills, neatly kept with small narrow paths among them used by the collectors to efficiently pluck the leaves, they are the custodians of this area, mostly women, wearing colorful dresses and carrying the baskets on their backs. Despite their busy work, they smiled and waved at me. Such lovely people!

My favorite moment came as I walked back to the hotel and befriended groups of schoolchildren. They were eager to practice their English, and we shared plenty of laughter and smiles. When it started to drizzle, they sweetly offered to share their umbrellas with me….what a beautiful gesture.

The next morning, I immersed myself further into the world of Ceylon tea, observing its production and learning the refined art of tea tasting. The resident Tea Planter led a perfectly paced exploration of tea cultivation’s colonial roots, its intricate manufacturing process, and the creation of varied flavor profiles to suit diverse palates. The experience concluded with a private tasting…. and just like that, I was hooked. Tea became my new favorite drink, and Sri Lankan tea is now my preferred choice.

Leaving was bittersweet, but the journey continued,  off to explore one last gem, the coastal paradise of Sri Lanka.

Chami took me along a scenic, off-the-beaten-path route, and I took time to walk parts of it while he patiently waited for me. We arrived at Cape Weligama, a hotel set on 12 acres of land overlooking the Indian Ocean. The views were absolutely stunning. From there, I continued on to Galle — my last UNESCO World Heritage Site of this trip.

Along the way, we stopped to try the famous King coconut. I drank the juice, and Chami asked if I wanted to eat the coconut meat. I hesitated, having tried coconut before and not expecting much — but King coconut was a revelation. Bright orange in the outside, it was nothing like regular coconut: rich, savory, and silky soft meat inside.

We visited a small farm owned by a young couple. The husband had cared for his parents until their passing and inherited the land. He now grows cinnamon. I learned that Sri Lanka is the largest producer of this spice. Several locals told me that while Sri Lanka has many tea competitors, its cinnamon is unmatched in quality. I watched how the bark is harvested and peeled before drying it. Of course, I tried a cup of cinnamon tea, truly the best I’ve had. When I mentioned my love for King coconut, the farmer eagerly climbed one of his palms and brought me a fresh one. His wife was equally delightful. She showed me how to grind coconut with onions, paprika, and lemon, a simple, delicious blend you can add to any meal. She also prepared manioc, which I tasted with the coconut mixture, absolutely unforgettable.

Galle is breathtaking. Its charm lies in the old city nestled within the fort built by the Dutch. The layout and atmosphere immediately reminded me of Cartagena in Colombia, another UNESCO site. Both are encircled by historic forts and adorned with colorful houses, quaint coffee shops, vibrant restaurants, and eclectic boutiques. You can easily explore on foot, and the vibe is wonderfully relaxed. I wandered past the clock tower, Dutch churches, Buddhist temples, mosques, and the iconic white lighthouse.

In the afternoon, I met Shanjei, who helped me discover Galle’s true essence through a walking tour. He doesn’t call himself a guide; meeting him felt more like reconnecting with a storytelling friend. We visited the old Dutch hospital, now a lively restaurant complex with sea views. I heard fascinating tales of Dutch privateers (legalized pirates), Portuguese adventurers, and Muslim gem traders. It was a great afternoon that make me see Galle with different eyes!

I stayed in two different centrally located hotels. One night at the Galle Fort Hotel, with suites encircling the pool. What impressed me most was how thoughtfully antiques were integrated into the décor. The other was Taru Villas, another beautiful colonial boutique hotel. I especially loved the seating area adorned with incredible paintings and relics. One thing worth highlighting is Sri Lanka’s widespread awareness of sustainability and recycling truly admirable.

Later that afternoon, I walked to the fort walls to watch the sunset. I wasn’t alone; many locals were also winding down their day, eating ice cream with their families, children running joyfully around, young couples hand in hand, and passionate photographers chasing the last glimpse of sunlight. We were all there, captivated by the waves, the sun, and this beautiful country of Sri Lanka…